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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got a 2012 Yeti Ambition 2.0tdi 110 manual transmission from a used car dealership. My first diesel. I saw people on this forum talking about how diesel Yetis are very particular with their revs and gears so I didn't think much about it at first, but now I'm a bit worried.

I've had the car for about a week and a half. Right when leaving the dealership and merging onto a roundabout / then onto the highway, engine cut out. It's not really a stall per se, there's no CLUNK and a hard stop. But rather the engine just shuts off, and what I see on the dashboard is the BATTERY light illuminated. Then later that day, stopped at a stoplight, put car in neutral, and then lifted foot off the clutch. And same thing. Engine off. Battery light on. Like battery dies (but radio, etc stay on)

Then nothing happened for about a week, until yesterday going about 55mph on the highway, the same thing happened. I was changing gears but I was between 3 or 4 it seems. super scary. Cars going fast all around me and I had to restart the engine while the car was cruising.

Could this be user error/adjusting my driving style, or does this sound like a mechanical problem? It's just weird to me that the battery light would come on, does anyone else experience this when the engine cuts out?
 

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Have you checked the resting voltage of the battery?
I very much doubt if it's caused by your driving style.
Does the car always stop or just reduce power and revs?
Is the battery light red or amber?
Why did you not return to the garage when it first did it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have you checked the resting voltage of the battery?
I very much doubt if it's caused by your driving style.
Does the car always stop or just reduce power and revs?
Is the battery light red or amber?
Why did you not return to the garage when it first did it?
Thanks for your response!

I'm going to answer as best as possible, but I'm quite a newbie in terms of car terminology so please bear with me.

  • Have not checked resting voltage, how does one do that?
  • The car never lurches to a stop, the revs just lower and the car kind of coasts/cruises until I depress clutch and restart the ignition
  • The battery light is red
  • I didn't return it because I thought it was just a standard stall/clutch issue on my end. I've been driving for 10 years but only have driven manual transmission for 2-3 years (I'm from the USA and moved to Spain) so I'm not an expert manual driver. When it first happened I was approaching a roundabout and I thought it was just because I was releasing the clutch too fast or not properly revving. Plus reading online about people having similar issues with their Yetis at roundabouts & junctions, how the engine cuts out at a certain low rev speed to "protect itself.." I thought I just had to adjust my driving style. But then what happened on the highway really scared me (I was also downshifting though, it always happens with downshifting it seems...) I do have a 1-year warranty though and plan on taking it back if this continues.
 

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You need to take the car straight back to the dealer as it is unsafe. If you stall the car it will be noticeable with a thud or clunk, if you take the revs too low the engine will clatter. If the engine dies of it's own accord the dealer needs to fix it or refund your money that is certainly not normal.
In this country you would be covered by consumer law, the vehicle is not of merchantable quality or fit for purpose, I would have thought the E.U. would have similar laws.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You need to take the car straight back to the dealer as it is unsafe. If you stall the car it will be noticeable with a thud or clunk, if you take the revs too low the engine will clatter. If the engine dies of it's own accord the dealer needs to fix it or refund your money that is certainly not normal.
In this country you would be covered by consumer law, the vehicle is not of merchantable quality or fit for purpose, I would have thought the E.U. would have similar laws.
Thanks for your response. Yeah it definitely seemed a bit surprising. I've stalled on several cars so I know what a stall feels like. I was just convinced that it was the engine "protecting itself" by shutting off as I've seen on many yeti posts in different forums. But then realizing the battery light was coming on seemed abnormal.... Aghhh. Back to the dealer next week then
 

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You need to take the car straight back to the dealer as it is unsafe.
Exactly, if the warning light was amber it would not be so bad but a red warning means stop and sort it.
 

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Does the battery light come on before the engine dies?

If you drive along very slowly in first gear and take your foot off the accelerator it should happily drive along on tick over at around 800 to 900 r.p.m.
 

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You've either got a duff battery or an even bigger problem, if you're happy to buy a new battery that is where to start if not take it straight back to the dealer and leave it there until sorted. Nothing you are doing would cause this problem.
 

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My understanding is that the only role of the battery light is to indicate when the battery is being discharged, and that is absolutely normal that the battery light would illuminate whenever the engine is not running.

I think that is what The Hood is getting at with his question above ... if it illumimates when the engine is running, then there is likely a problem with the charging system at the very least.

If I was in the OP's position, I would take the car straight back to the dealer.
Not knowing how to check the resting battery voltage makes me doubt that you could diagnose and fix this in a reasonable timeframe, even with help from forum members.
I am certainly not saying that in a condescending way, just being pragmatic.

The biggest problem you may face in trying to get this fixed is that it appears to be an intermittent problem, which are usually a pain to diagnose. It's as if cars can tell when a mechanic is in the car, and they behave impeccably!


Regarding the battery voltage...
The easiest way for the OP to personally check the battery voltage would be to buy a voltmeter that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket.
Purchasing a cheap multimeter would be better (by cheap, I mean €10 or €15), as that is a much more flexible device that can be used in the future for many other things.

"Resting battery voltage" means the voltage across the battery terminals a good few hours after the engine last ran. For example, waiting overnight before measuring it.
 

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As in #4 take it back to the dealer he will carry out a scan of the ECU to see if there are any stored fault codes. If he does find some that should help things, if he does not expect him to say there is nothing wrong with the car and you may have a bit of a fight on your hands to get him to do what he should.
 

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Yeti Outdoor 2017 SE L 2.0TDi 150 4x4 Manual
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I was just convinced that it was the engine "protecting itself" by shutting off as I've seen on many yeti posts in different forums. But then realizing the battery light was coming on seemed abnormal.... Aghhh. Back to the dealer next week then
1) The descriptions of symptoms in your posts at #1 and #3 are definitely NOT normal behaviour of a diesel Yeti. Especially not one with a manual gearbox. (DSG "auto" gearboxes have extra layers of software which can very rarely give unusual behaviour. Such as Audi's in the USA that occasionally accelerated violently when the throttle pedal was not being touched. That is ruled out in your case however).

2) Where did you read about this engine "protecting itself" behaviour? I have a thought you may be confusing this with an engine going into "limp mode" when it has detected a long build up of other faults that could potentially cause damage. In that scenario though, the engine does NOT suddenly cut out completely. Just drops to lower revs and lower power, where the other incumbent faults can do less damage. Still leaving the car driveable, just. Hence the common colloquialism of "limp home mode".

3) Diesel Yetis in fact, all have "anti-stall" software (in my experience at least). This gives the opposite effect to yours. Where if the engine detects that it is being driven badly enough that a stall is imminent, it will try to produce a brief burst of power and revs to prevent the stall. The opposite of what you describe. This can be a bit of a surprise when it happens, such as manoeuvring in a tight space at tick-over revs. Or in the scenario The Hood described above, of ticking along with no throttle in a low gear, in slow moving traffic. Only happens in extremes though. When the engine is really about to stall.

4) Not recommended for regular driving, but as a test on a suitable road with little other traffic around, travelling at a modest or medium speed, you should be able to dip the clutch, take the car out of gear, release the clutch and throttle pedal completely. Then the car will "coast" along using its own momentum, while the engine drops to tick-over speed. The engine should NOT stop completely. (Note to self: Must check that our Yeti actually does that as I expect it should!)

5) For someone with little car mechanic or electrical diagnosis experience, one of these gadgets: Fast Car Charger USB Cigarette Lighter Socket 2-Port Adapter For iPhone Samsung | eBay
can be a useful guide. When not charging a device via a USB cable, it gives a battery voltage reading. Inexpensive enough to be a worthwhile investment. Even if you subsequently graduate to the kind of meter that Cubes suggested earlier, as your knowledge increases.

Meanwhile I agree 100% with other comments. There is something very odd about your car's reported behaviour.
 

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take the car out of gear, release the clutch and throttle pedal completely. Then the car will "coast" along using its own momentum, while the engine drops to tick-over speed. The engine should NOT stop completely. (Note to self: Must check that our Yeti actually does that as I expect it should!)
Tick over speed is about 800rpm but only at rest, if car is moving it will be much nearer to 1000rpm.
 

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Tick over speed is about 800rpm but only at rest, if car is moving it will be much nearer to 1000rpm.
Tested our Yeti last evening. While engine fully warmed and after around 25 miles of driving in hilly countryside.
Tick-over with car at rest, in neutral (at a red light) - 750 rpm.
Tick-over with car coasting in neutral, clutch pedal released, at around 40mph, approx. 850-900 rpm.
Urrell is correct. :)

The main point for the OP though and symptoms described in #1 and #3 though, is that at no point in this kind of test should the engine stop completely of its own accord.

Next steps for OP:
  • Fault codes read to try to get a handle on the underlying cause(s) of this bad behaviour.
  • Get selling dealer to fix those at their own expense.
  • As already mentioned in #4, #5 and #10.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Next steps for OP:
  • Fault codes read to try to get a handle on the underlying cause(s) of this bad behaviour.
  • Get selling dealer to fix those at their own expense.
  • As already mentioned in #4, #5 and #10.
Been a while since I've posted here. just wanna say thanks to EVERYONE who has responded. Unfortunately, I've still not found a solution.

I took the car to the dealer, it's a used car dealership here in Spain where I live. Has great reviews & they are very responsive, but I'm a bit frustrated because the 1-year warranty I was given only allows me to take the car to the Mechanic that THEY use. If I take the car to any other mechanic, warranty is voided.

Anyway, About 3 weeks ago I took it in. A few days later, got the answer I was expecting: "We ran the codes and there were no error codes listed at all." They told me to take the car back, keep driving it, and to report back if it happened again. In the past 3 weeks, I have had ZERO stalls/engine cutouts.

Fast forward to 4 days ago. Driving in the mountains, approaching a small village at slow speeds. Engine cut out a total of 7 times in the span of 5 minutes. RPM needle was bouncing around and then dropped to zero and battery light came on. It makes a kind of "ticking" noise right before stopping. My friends in the car were super scared. Driving home, everything normal.
Next day, driving to work, around 1st gear in traffic jam, and then approaching various roundabouts, engine also cut out around 6 times. Also happened once around 25km/hr when I put it in neutral and was coasting. This time I put it into 2nd gear and hit the acceleration and it kicked back into gear. Then cut out a few more times on my drive.

And finally yesterday, similar situation to the above.

I am going to take the car back into the shop tomorrow. This definitely isn't normal. I just hope that if their mechanic doesn't find faulty codes, they will be flexible and let me take my car to a mechanic who specializes in Skoda, I live in Mallorca and there are a few here.

Any idea what this could be if not the "motor protecting itself" theory? I'll try to find other forums where this was discussed. Thinking of things I could tell the mechanic. Looking online seems like it might be IAC valve issue? I don't know!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Forums I have read where something (supposedly) similar has been discussed. A lot of answers here talk about the engine "protecting itself", like in this answer from diesel stalls at low speeds: "But it isn't stalling. The engine is deliberately being stopped to prevent damage as the revs are too low, so this is a good thing and protecting the engine."

Thought this was maybe my issue but I guess not:




Actually Flinstone & The Hood, have seen some of your responses in some of these forums! You are the pros. I'm totally dumb when it comes to car stuff so I'm doin' my very best
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi again all. Took the car back to the dealership early this week and explained everything that happened, the fact that this issue didn't appear again for 3 weeks and then suddenly came back 4 days in a row. They did the same thing, ran the machine for error codes and once again "didn't find any error codes"... I basically begged them to take the car to Škoda and have them check it, so the car is with Škoda now. The dealership is honestly being really annoying about this and are giving me pushback, acting like this is a problem caused by me rather than the car being unsafe.

I'm just wondering, if Škoda comes back and also says "nothing is wrong" I will probably just screw it and go see another mechanic, at least to get an opinion.

What would you ask a mechanic to look for? Could it be emissions fix? IAC? Dirty fuel tank? Air getting into fuel? Just wondering what I could maybe ask a mechanic to look for.
 

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I have personally never experienced symptoms like those described. Not with a diesel engine anyway. Only with old, carburettor fed petrol engines that had the idle speed set too low.

Does the engine idle normally when stationary? At a very steady 750-800 rpm.

Possible causes like intermittently low fuel pressure or partially blocked injector(s), should be expected to generate fault codes.

So I have no further advice to offer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have personally never experienced symptoms like those described. Not with a diesel engine anyway. Only with old, carburettor fed petrol engines that had the idle speed set too low.

Does the engine idle normally when stationary? At a very steady 750-800 rpm.

Possible causes like intermittently low fuel pressure or partially blocked injector(s), should be expected to generate fault codes.

So I have no further advice to offer.
No worries! I appreciate you thinking of what you can. This has been of great help.

In general the engine idles normally around 800. The day I took it to the dealer, the RPM needle jiggled a little bit between 800-1000, which seemed weird to me and has also happened a few times right before the engine cuts out.

I'm hoping perhaps Škoda has seen an issue like this before on a different model and can more easily pin it down. I was also thinking it might be an electrical issue. But I do agree, most of these issues would generate codes, so I don't know what else to tell them to look for.

Will update again soon
Thank you!!
 

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When the revs are between 800 and 1000 the engine might be trying to carry out a regeneration, in which case a drive with the revs higher than normal might help it complete.
I think the OP is saying it's fluctuating/hunting between 800 and 1000, so not going to be a regen issue.
 
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