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2017 Outdoor SEL TDi150 4x4 Manual
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One possibility could be the manual micro switch has broken in the latching mechanism in the rear hatch? The part that you actually push against to operate the latch, located behind the semi-hidden rubber cover where you push against with your fingertips to unlatch and then lift the hatch. Had the very similar part fail on the boot latch mechanism of two consecutive BMWs. (Where the push switch is integral with the number plate light bar, so you have to replace the whole bar to fix it). But never on on our Yeti.

When you push on the rubber switch to unlatch the hatch before lifting it, can you feel any resistance? Or does it feel like you are pushing against empty space? Can the door still be unlatched electrically, by using the rear door door opening button on the key fob? Or is the latch remaining jammed at the base of the door, where it hooks into the small bar recessed into the cross member?

Alternatively if the lock is unlatching OK but the door still won't lift, could it be jammed at the sides? Where the door closes against the anti-rattle blocks? Or could one or other of the gas struts have seized? Edited by: Flintstone
 
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On mine the hatch sometimes bounces when closing leaving it on the second catch. When there the button on the Remote does not work if the car was locked before closing the hatch.
I have to unlock the car and then the boot lid button on the hatch will open it.Edited by: ken3966
 

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Maybe you are just not using enough strength!

I find that on my 2011 made Yeti that my boot is difficult to open if it hasn't been used for a while. At 100kg, I find I am using most of my strength to open it, and the handle is not easy to get a good grip on. It just seems to be a really tight fit, and has always been like this. If used more often, it is easy to open.

Perhaps you could try one person trying to pull from outside(after unlocking) with another person pushing from the inside?
 

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2015 Elegance Greenline II
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Have you tried pressing the unlock button twice in a row?

There are several options for unlocking set up on the Maxidot.
ie one click unlock drivers door, one click unlock one side.

Edited by: Urrell
 

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Have you tried pressing the unlock button twice in a row?

There are several options for unlocking set up on the Maxidot.
ie one click unlock drivers door, one click unlock one side.

Edited by: Urrell
I have a 2017 1.2 and have a similar problem. I have removed the lock and nothing seems to be broken but, I have noticed the the touch pad where you press to to open the boot, you sometimes hear a click from the micro switches and sometimes you don't. Is it these that have failed or could it be an electrical problem. I don't really want to pay a garage if I can help it.
 

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I have a simular problem. When I removed the trim panel I found that the connector to the handle that you press to open the boot was a bit loose. When I wiggled it the lock worked and if I held it in the socket you could press the handle and it worked. I tried squeezing the connector pins together a bit and it seems to work for a while then it worked loose again. I don't know if the problem is the switch or the connector, my worry is if it is the connector then a garage is going to charge me for a replacement wiring loom and that seems a rip off to me.
Does anyone have any other solutions or suggestions?
 

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my worry is if it is the connector then a garage is going to charge me for a replacement wiring loom and that seems a rip off to me.
The garage should be able to obtain the bare connector plus repair wires. The wires are about 300mm long with a pin for the connector at each end; hence one repair wire replaces two pins. They are usually yellow.
 
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I've also had a problem with the tailgate unlocking on my 2017 L&K. My favoured method for opening just the boot was the long press of the boot unlock button on the remote. This partially releases the tailgate then pressing the release button it could be opened. Intermittently the tailgate would be partially released but on pressing the release button it wouldn't open. It could be opened by pressing the unlock button twice then the boot release button.

It went to 2 garages who replaced the lock twice, the control unit and the release button (expensive as it was the one with the camera in it) all under warranty. It always worked after it had been to the garage but would fail after a few days to a week or so. At one point I asked the garage if the wiring had been checked and the receptionist said the technician would have done that (No chance!) I also said that replacing the release button wouldn't cure it but was told they had changed everything else so they had to change it.

I then took it to a third dealer who had it for a few days to investigate and their technician actually used his initiative and found a poor connection on one of the connectors. This reduced the voltage going to the motor but it would still allow the lock to be unlocked with the two press on the open button or the short press on the boot release button. I believe that when the long press is used followed by the boot release button a shorter unlock pulse is applied to the motor which is insufficient to operate the lock when the fault occurs.

I was told that it was not possible to replace the connector and they would have to replace the loom. The fault is, I believe, still there but I now use the short press of the boot button when I want to unlock just the boot. It is also possible that both parts of the connector would have to be replaced.

I do not know where the connector is located but I suspect a fair amount of panel removal was needed to find it. I'm sure that the application of a little switch cleaner and using a pair of needle nosed pliers to tighten the socket contact would cure the problem but as I have a solution at present I won't be attempting to find the connector.

Keith
 

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I sort of jab away at the key fob until we can get in, I think I am too dime to understand why sometimes the drivers door unlocks but the passengers doesn't and sometimes the boot seems fine and sometimes it partly opens and then doesn't. I had a keyless entry car once, it was rather the same. Main thing seems to be, hang onto the key fob till you get what you want.
 

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Maybe you are just not using enough strength!

I find that on my 2011 made Yeti that my boot is difficult to open if it hasn't been used for a while. At 100kg, I find I am using most of my strength to open it, and the handle is not easy to get a good grip on. It just seems to be a really tight fit, and has always been like this. If used more often, it is easy to open.

Perhaps you could try one person trying to pull from outside(after unlocking) with another person pushing from the inside?
I appreciate that this is an old thread, but I need to add to Simplyred's suggestion above.

I left my Yeti for a month while overseas touring, and was unable to open the boot when I returned. I was about to pry up the rear trim and start replacing parts, when I came across this post. Lo and behold, it worked.

It took a lot of strength. I rowed in college, and work professionally as a drummer-- I have a strong grip, and decent arm strength despite my advancing years, but it took both hands and a good solid pull, and the door opened. I've since lubed up the lock parts, and all is good again with my wonderful Yeti.

Always try the simplest solution first!
 

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This thread is being resurrected again, mainly to avoid having the same suggestions made. I had a problem with the lock not releasing on my 2012 Yeti and thanks to this excellent forum, managed to strip the interior panel and replace the lock. Even after that there was always a whirring noise when pressing the rubber release handle containing the microswitch. Now, all I get is the whirring whenever that switch is pressed but the lock doesn't release. I opened it from the inside by putting a screwdriver in the hole and flipping the lock. Once opened, I've cleaned and squirted some WD40 in the microswitch and that whirring noise I guess means that's working, but the lock stays closed. It moves open and closed if you flip it with a screwdriver so I know the lock mechanism works, but the white plastic "emergency release" piece doesn't move when the release button is pressed. Is it supposed to move every time or is it just as an emergency door open device. I can't believe the lock has failed already, as it's only a couple of years old and was a genuine part.
What actually makes the lock release? The whirring microswitch would presumably indicate that it's working, as when the door is slammed closed you can get it to do the first release but then it catches on the lock and won't budge, so if you drive it like that the interior light stays on and the warning bong continues. Sorry if I haven't explained that very well, but I don't want to buy another locking mechanism if it's likely to be anything else.

Thanks
 
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