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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Apologies if this has been on before...
Aircon not cold on our Yeti 2012 experience 4x4 170 ps (Europe configuration).
Used Ancell obd 2 reader & showed 5 faults...

03266. DTC definition not found .
00924. Relay for headlamp cleaning system (J39).
01516. Terminal 30 left.
02391. Terminal 30 reference.
00937. Terminal 30. Right.

Could anyone please assist with what these actual mean?
I assume it's serious because they came up as faukts....but how serious and are any to do with aircon/clima?
 

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2015 Elegance Greenline II
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Have you checked for blown fuses in the drivers door A pillar and the under bonnet one near the battery?
When was the last time the aircon had pressure checked/topped up?
 

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The Terminal 30 errors are Open Circuit faults which is why I suspect Urrell is directing you to check for blown fuses.
Is the Climate Control just not getting cold or are fans not working either?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's been into garage who state refrigerant is OK. I've checked all the fuses and they look OK. I don't think the fans are working, but the engine note changes as though they do or 'sonething' is taking the power (if that makes sense). I've been having flat battery problems and had to jump lead start recently.
 

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A bit of a wild card, but as the car is a 2012, is the wiring between the A pillar and driver's door O.K. The wires inside the rubber bellows are prone to breaking, when mine broke there were all sorts of strange things going on. It might not be anything to do with the aircon but you may have more than one fault at the same time. And how old is the battery?
 

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I've been having flat battery problems and had to jump lead start recently.
It's no good trying to sort problems until you sort that one out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Battery has been in it since I purchased 5 years ago & I reckon looking at it, it's probably been in from new. Looking at some other threads, I can say the car is running perfectly in all other areas (not to tempt fate). I will we examine all the fuss in the morning.
 

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Battery has been in it since I purchased 5 years ago & I reckon looking at it, it's probably been in from new.
Any chance doing a standing voltage test after not running overnight?
 
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As a former designer of VW fuseboxes, I immediately associate "Terminal 30" (translated from the German "Klemme 30") as being any electrical connection that is wired direct to the positive battery terminal (i.e. permanent live, not dependent on any other factors such as the position of the ignition switch).

As a starting point, I would advise checking the battery voltage directly on the battery posts. If that seems ok, then check the battery terminal connections and the big connection on the multi-fuse that runs along the front of the under-bonnet fusebox.

Not possible to say if your recent flat battery has anything to do with the air con problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I appreciate all your comments, thank you. It's booked in at an auto-electrician for tomorrow morning. There will be a new battery fitted first, as you're right Urrell, shoukdvecalready done it. Will keep you updated.
 

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As the engine note changes when the a/c is turned on it suggests the a/c pump is engaging , this backs up what the garage told you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It's been into garage who state refrigerant is OK. I've checked all the fuses and they look OK. I don't think the fans are working, but the engine note changes as though they do or 'sonething' is taking the power (if that makes sense). I've been having flat battery problems and had to jump lead start recently.
apologies for late addition.
'Betty' is in with the garage now, compressor kaputt! 'New 'Hella' 2 year warranty& fitting €900.....(£770)...
Oh well, having viewed some of the very informative posts on here, I will check the tightness of the centre bolt at frequent intervals!l
Every 2 years for TUV (MOT), in Germany.
Inspektion (full Skoda service), rear suspension repair (shocks and boots replaced), swap summer to winter tyres....all in €800 (£685).
It is what it is & intend on keeping her for at least another 5 years, so for me money spent is worth it.
 

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Where do you store your winter/summer tyres? My brother-in-law in Aachen used to use a "tyre hotel", a phrase that always made me smile. He actually had the tyres removed from the rims and swapped which doesn't sound good for the tyre beads.
After his car was stolen from outside his flat (one of sixty stolen in one night) he bought a car with all season tyres.
 

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After his car was stolen from outside his flat (one of sixty stolen in one night) he bought a car with all season tyres.
Can’t help but wonder how all season tyres make a car more thief-proof? :ROFLMAO::rolleyes:(y)
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Where do you store your winter/summer tyres? My brother-in-law in Aachen used to use a "tyre hotel", a phrase that always made me smile. He actually had the tyres removed from the rims and swapped which doesn't sound good for the tyre beads.
After his car was stolen from outside his flat (one of sixty stolen in one night) he bought a car with all season tyres.
Store mine in our cellar, or Keller as it is in German.
 

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Oh well, having viewed some of the very informative posts on here, I will check the tightness of the centre bolt at frequent intervals!l
Are we missing some crucial information here, why are you now talking about 'the centre bolt', what exactly was the fault with the old compressor?

Not long after I bought my MK1 Octy in 2007 my AC stopped working so I dropped by a local garage to have the gas checked (it was OK) then the 'mechanic', a spotty yoof or no more than around 18 summers, dived under and moments later emerged with the central clutch rotator in his hand proclaiming "new compressor!" and muttering €500+ (this was in France).

I politely demurred went home and dropped the under tray at which point it became clear that all that had happened was that the 8mm nut had come off the end of the compressor shaft allowing the rotating member to fall off. Initially bolted it straight back on which effectively locked the magnetic clutch in the engaged state which allowed me to prove that the compressor was still working which it was. I then removed it again, shimmed it appropriately, and refitted using Loctite on the nut.

10 years and some 250,000km on when I finally sold the car the AC was still working perfectly.
 

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Sometimes this is all that is required on the air-con compressor, less than £15.
Coil Gas Jewellery Helmet Camera accessory
 
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