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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
At some point this month I will be replacing the cambelt on the Yeti.
Are there any Yeti-specific issues I should be aware of?

I spent some time using the search function on here looking for potential issues, but everything seems to be about either replacement intervals or what is a realistic cost of having somebody else do the job.

I have already got a Gates kit (including water pump) and fresh coolant.
Just waiting for Hermes to deliver the engine locking set they've had in their sorting hub for over a week!

Total cost so far has been approx £163.
£116 for the timing belt kit (Gates KP25649XS-1)
£24 for coolant (Comma Xstream G40, 5 litres of concentrate)
£23 for the engine locking set (Sealey VSE2358)

I expect the job will take me the best part of a day as I have not done one before on an EA189, nor on any Yeti.

I've watched a couple of videos on YouTube of the belt being changed with the engine on an engine stand (which lets you see what the guy is actually doing), but there's not much on there about Yeti-specific packaging or access issues.
 

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Why go for the G40 Ethylene Glycol based antifreeze instead of the recommended G13 Glycerin based?
 
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Why go for the G40 Ethylene Glycol based antifreeze instead of the recommended G13 Glycerin based?
My thoughts exactly! Non-compatible coolants??? Possibly??

If using concentrate, don't forget to add on a couple of £s for some de-ionised water to dilute it with? Tap water doesn't really cut it with these high-tech coolants - I'm told. The chlorine and other chemicals used can react and produce precipitation.

Otherwise - very interesting.

I understand that the best access is through the o/s wheel arch, with the wheel arch liner removed. Certainly to the crank sprocket.

I'm also told some cam belt kits come with the cam sprocket locking pins included?
 

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Any reason why no water pump costed in yet? (See thread by Upside down on what can happen if not changed).
The OP mentioned it with the Gates kit

5788


The Yeipedia is getting quite excited I wonder if we will get a write up with photo's
 

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The OP mentioned it with the Gates kit
Yup - missed that paragraph in a speed read and only saw the parts list with just belt kit mentioned. Apologies Cubes. #3 amended accordingly. Thanks D.

Agree on write up......
 

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This thread might go some way to alleviating mine and Urrell’s concerns about G40 coolant? See post 6 onwards...

I’d still be popping into my nearest Euro Car Parts for some G13 though. Given that you can never achieve a complete drain in practice, no matter how hard you try. So there will be some mixing between old and new coolant.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Hmmmm, choice of coolant does appear to be a minefield.

For starters, the expansion tank has G12 printed on it.
My understanding is that G12, G12+ and G12++ are glycol-based.
As the car is 10 years old but new to me, I have no idea what is in there at the moment. So a thorough flush was always the plan.
I already have a few 5-litre bottles of deionised water, which will be used to do the final flush and to dilute the new coolant.

I have used Comma Xstream products for a number of years without issue. They use BASF Glysantin as their active ingredient.
I understand that Glysantin G40 is very similar to G12++, and does not have any particular incompatibility problems, with the possible exception of the old G11/G48 coolants.
The BASF Glysantin G40 ingredient is advertised as being approved by VW for use in all their cars since 2005.
As far as I know, Comma (and indeed BASF) do not have a G13 (glycerol) equivalent in their product range.

If I knew G13 was in there already, then I would be replacing like-for-like. But I'm not in that position.


Regarding the locking pins, all I can say for sure is that the Gates kit doesn't include them. Similar to Comma coolant, I have used Gates belts for many years without issue, which is why I chose that kit.

The only thing I wasn't expecting to see in the Gates kit was a couple of studs. They look like they might be for the small idler rollers. They are quite small in diameter, maybe M5 or M6 threads (although I haven't yet measured them to confirm the size).
It is not to clear to me at the moment if these studs should be replaced as a matter of course. More research required on that one.


Anyway, thanks for the input so far.
I will try to take some photos and put a few words together for the Yetipedia.
I'm on a bit of a cambelt mission this year. Did my Focus TDCi a few months ago, and I also have the parts to do my 924S waiting patiently in the garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My reply has been awaiting moderator approval for the last few hours.
I didn't realise my choice of coolant was that controversial!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have looked a bit further into the Comma XStream range.

They do G40, which I have bought, which is "Ethylene glycol based antifreeze with Si-OAT (Silicated Organic Additive Technology) inhibitors", and "is approved by Audi/Bentley/Bugatti/Lamborghini/Seat/Skoda/VW vehicles built as of 2005 (TL774-G)".

They also do GG40, which is "Ethylene glycol and glycerine based antifreeze with advanced silicate inhibitors (Si-OAT)", and "is approved by VW/Seat/Skoda/Bentley/Bugatti/Lamborghini (TL 774-J) from 2012 onwards".

Quotes are from the Comma Oils website.
TL refers to the VW standard specification document number.

I no longer have access to these VW documents, so I can't say if the later version of the standard (J) includes backwards compatibility with the earlier document (G).
Even if backward compatibility is included in TL774-J, it doesn't mean that TL774-G is no longer relevant to cars made before 2012.

Our Yeti was registered in February 2011, so I am happy that the G40 I have bought is suitable for this application.
You pay your money and you take your choice.
 

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I've approved you post, the forum has some strange moods. The last time I did cam belt change it cost me £23 in parts (Nissan Prairie) a damaged spine means I can't bend over long enough to do them anymore, very painful paying someone else to do it for me.
 

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I've approved you post, the forum has some strange moods.
Possibly caused by a dynamic IP address as it changes frequently with Three. I "approved" another one a couple of days ago so we'll keep an eye on it.
 

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Not so much controversial. More that Urrell and I were just trying to head off what may have become an expensive mistake? Never previously having encountered G40 myself, and being less aware of your level of tech knowledge in this area as a relatively new member. (But learning daily of your broad scope of expertise and depth of research). Turns out that our concern was unjustified. Yup. G40 is a VW approved coolant. For sure.

The header tank on a 2011 build car will of course say G12, because that was the factory fit coolant at that time. G13 is the more modern replacement for G12, G12+ and G12++. G13 is also totally compatible with G12 variants and mixes happily. I’m not sure if any of those G12 variants are even widely available any more though, so that question is possibly irrelevant?

Edit: been doing a bit more research on G40. Answered the colour question, which you may have seen in an earlier edit of this post. Several other new learning items have resulted about G40 knowledge. This below being the most succinct summary:

So G40 is good to go all along. Will look forward to the blow by blow description.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I read the Yeti's manual. It does say to top up with G13, but then it also says use a coolant that meets TL774G. Whilst those two statements are not completely mutually exclusive, not many brands of G13 are advertised as meeting 774G, whereas all meet 774J.
The unknown status of backward compatibility in 774J may explain this, if it exists.

Another snippet...
Ferdinand Bilstein, a brand many of us will recognise and respect, market their own brand of G12++ and G13 coolants.
Looking on their website, they recommend a healthy selection of Skoda models for each type, but they recommend all Yeti models and years are cooled with their G12++.

I am beginning to think that all brands of G12++ and G13 are not equal, but they seem to be very similar, and completely interchangeable.

And things are evidently moving on in the world of coolants ... G12evo now exists, as does something labelled as G13 Plus+.


I'm all antifreezed out now.
Does anybody know if the chicken came first or the egg?
 

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Does anybody know if the chicken came first or the egg?
Definitely the dinosaur egg that hatched as a chicken! :D

Yup - Antifreeze has as many rapidly evolving versions as Apple iOS versions!
 

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Me - on a younger day! Before my hair changed colour? (That was after the egg hatched!)

Still got those hand tools that I use on the car occasionally too!

How do I register a double "like" on a post?
 

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I had the same confusion over G40 when I replaced my radiator and thermostat. I would have been happy to refill with this after checking compatibility, but I happened to get 5L of G13 delivered for far lower cost than local motor factors had G40 for. There are compatibility tables - see here;

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have seen a few versions of that compatibility table.
This one includes more info than any of the others I have come across.


I am still hoping to get the cambelt done soon, but the courier Hermes are getting on my nerves now.
I ordered the engine locking set on 2nd June from an ebay seller.
According to the consignment tracking website, the package entered the Hermes network that same evening. Well done to the ebay seller, no issues there.

Still no delivery though, and Hermes are still telling me the expected delivery date is 3rd June. Which is 11 days ago.
I'm not expecting to ever see this parcel. I'll be asking the seller to send another one (using a different courier).
 
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