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Just saw this on the Shogun Sport Facebook group and on investigation found lots of reports of it on other websites. I'd never heard of it before and wondered if it affects any year of Yeti.

"So this week some very important news and some information that could save you thousands!!! Later VAG group cars come fitted with a silica bag inside the header tank!!! Why you ask… well the explanation I got from VW was to keep the coolant fresher for longer
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another rubbish idea to add to long life servicing…. Well let me explain and we have seen this first hand several times….. the bag is a ticking time bomb for two reasons…. Firstly it can split its self then releasing silica into your water system, this blocks water ways and heater matrix (solid I may add) so the you get warm heaters in and off similar to head gaskets symptoms… so if you have this which can be seen poking into the top of the coolant bottle…. Removed the bottle and get rid of it now! Or give us a shout and we will sort it don’t leave till it’s going to cost 1000’s to fix! Please note later T6’s have these but by all means check! Update just to make things worse this bag can dissolve if the incorrect coolant is used when topping up or re-filling"
 

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The EA288 diesel engine, the 150bhp one fitted from mid 2015, has this silica bag in the coolant expansion bottle.
 

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Yeti Outdoor 2017 SE L 2.0TDi 150 4x4 Manual
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Yup! As Bryetian said in #2. My local independent Skoda specialist told me about this just a couple of days ago when I popped in for a chat about my 2017 Yeti. (He liked it btw).
Although a very badly worded explanation that Davej copied from the Shogun Faceblot group in #1, that remains a very helpful "Heads Up" on Davej's part! (The quote meets my very low expectations for the standard of English found in FB groups generally).

Was apparently common for a while to have this additive bag in cars assembled using G13 coolant/antifreeze. Hence why it affects VW group cars more than some others, who use different coolant chemistry. These bags don't contain raw "silica" by the way, as in silica gel used as a drying agent in packaging, (another misleading inaccuracy in the Facebook quote), but "silicates", i.e. silica compounds. Same as used in the chemistry of the coolant itself. The idea being that the bag of crystal beads slowly dissolves silicates into to coolant. To gradually replace the same compounds as those are leached or degraded from the coolant during regular use. Meaning that there would, in theory, be less need for regular (2-3 year) planned replacement of the coolant. As the anti-freeze strength would be maintained by the bag of crystals.

As reported though, the bags are inadequately made. They break open and spread tiny beads of crystals into the circulating coolant. Which typically then block the heater matrix first, then other galleries, etc. where there are tight spaces. Bad News!

In my case, with my "new" 2017 EA288 150 Yeti, this was the first thing my friendly independent specialist went to check for! To find the bag of silicates had already been removed from the header tank. "That's good!" was his comment. :) Thanks then to the alertness of the very independent, 1-man in a shed in a yard, servicing expert who had been looking after my Yeti while with its previous owner. He's been changing its oil and doing other maintenance work, such as brake line rust proofing and DPF cleaning fuel additive, every 5000 miles since it was new. (The original selling dealer went out of business soon after selling the Yeti, so the first owner went to someone more diligent to look after it!). (y)

I would suggest all EA288 150 owners check their car's header tank. If this bag of beads/crystals is present - remove it! Carefully! Then revert to getting the coolant strength checked annually. Before deciding when to replace the coolant. The traditional regime. (Gunsons do a very handy coolant checking gadget for under £20, ideal for DIY use). If the bag has already broken and lost its contents - then get the car checked by a specialist, sooner rather than later. If its heater is not pumping out hot air - start worrying?
 

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These bags don't contain raw "silica" by the way,
Apologies for my silica, I was in a bit of a rush to get back to my house cleaning. Today I'm a Drifter, Up On The Roof, as peaceful as can be.
 

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Apologies for my silica, I was in a bit of a rush to get back to my house cleaning. Today I'm a Drifter, Up On The Roof, as peaceful as can be.
No worries. :) Easily done. I wondered "why silica?", till my Indy specialist explained.

If up On The Roof - I hope you've got a couple of bottles of beer with you? As per The Shawshank Redemption. Although unlikely that you'll be needing those today because of the heat - not like Tim Robbins and Morgan Freeman in the film. :)
 

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If up On The Roof - I hope you've got a couple of bottles of beer with you? As per The Shawshank Redemption. Although unlikely that you'll be needing those today because of the heat - not like Tim Robbins and Morgan Freeman in the film. :)
No beers while working on the roof! It's more scary than any past rock climbing, mountaineering or scrambling.
Anyway, my last beer was in a small bar in Nelson's Dockyard, Antigua on 28 December 2015. It was the end of an 8 week sailing trip starting in Southampton.

Heat? Here, 7 degC plus a stiff NE wind feels like 4 degC.
 

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I remember seeing that somewhere else, here are some more details, again from "somewhere else"

This is what is done when the failure of the bag contents blocks the heater matrix.

What we do is add a flush, run the engine and drop the coolant into a tray and then a drum for recycling. We then take off a few water connections and pressure wash the system in both directions and finally blow through with compressed air. Then we change the matrix and refill with G12 Evo, we don’t clean them as it doesn’t work quickly and we have to judge the cost/benefit against a new part with a two year warranty. In the coolant tank you may find a silica bag or tube, these has been blamed for causing the gritty powder which blocks the matrix but not in the way people think. The G13 coolant suffered premature “silica fallout” and those bags boosted the content but they expire after about 5 years. Also G13 really objects to the use of tap water so G12 Evo comes ready mixed, you need around eight bottles and it is about £6 a bottle. We have started to notice a pattern in the blocking of the matrix, it happens at about 7 years so 2 years after the first cam belt change where the coolant invariably is diluted with tap water and that is a practice now banned in our workshops, everything gets G12 Evo which is the factory fill post 2017; it will be interesting in a year or so to see what it’s introduction brings.
 

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I never knew about the silica in the coolant system and never saw a mention in the handbook. Is this another justification for waterless coolant?
 

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I never knew about the silica in the coolant system and never saw a mention in the handbook. Is this another justification for waterless coolant?
Manufacturers haven't put that sort of useful information in handbooks for years. :( Very little information how to maintain the vehicle. Just how to operate it. Otherwise you might be tempted not to keep visiting the franchised dealership?

Yes - waterless coolant would solve the question. But car makers seem reluctant to use it during assembly? Reasons unknown.

I've not used tap water to dilute coolant for years. Only de-ionised water. Tap water for flushing only. Final flush with de-ionised, prior to replacing that with diluted coolant. Of late though, I've taken to buying fresh coolant "ready mixed". Far easier. Avoids such problems and is not much more expensive in comparison to the peace of mind.

From what was mentioned in the quote posted by The Hood, even more reason to replace coolant DIY, rather than at a garage? To be sure the job has been done properly.
 
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I put waterless coolant in SWMBO car about four years ago. A bit of messing about using the pre-treatment to absorb any water left in the system at first, but no bother since. The engine does not run any hotter and the level has remained constant.
 

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Wonder if this thread should be transferred to "Technical" as some people might not read "Idle Chit Chat". (This topic is certainly not just "idle chat".)

PS Checked my coolant tank, given the problems a few months back, and find thankfully that I don't have the offending part. Wonder if my indy removed it during the water pump repairs or if it was never there in the first place. Must ask him.
 

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Wonder if this thread should be transferred to "Technical" as some people might not read "Idle Chit Chat". (This topic is certainly not just "idle chat".)

PS Checked my coolant tank, given the problems a few months back, and find thankfully that I don't have the offending part. Wonder if my indy removed it during the water pump repairs or if it was never there in the first place. Must ask him.
Good point! And if moving sections it may also be worth changing the title to something more search friendly? Such as "EA288 diesel TDi 150 silicates / silica bag in header tank" or similar?

Upsidedown - as your car is a 170, my belief is it will have the older EA189 family engine. If correct that should mean it is not affected by this issue in the first place. Its factory fit should be the slightly earlier "G12" coolant, and may well have a label on the header tank to indicate that? When replacing its coolant, the most compatible would be G12, G12++ or G12evo. Although the results of an earlier thread would indicate G13 would also be compatible.

From other thread, modified and updated (colours are intended to mimic the colour of the coolant itself):
[Edit: further reading here - https://www.ato24.de/en/blog/which-coolant-antifreeze/ - suggests that what VW call "G12++" and what BASF (the makers?) call "G40" are in fact the same stuff? If correct, that simplifies the "will it mix" table somewhat?]:-
Colorfulness Rectangle Font Material property Parallel
 
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Good point! And if moving sections it may also be worth changing the title to something more search friendly? Such as "EA288 diesel TDi 150 silicates / silica bag in header tank" or similar?
In the time it took for my kettle to boil for a cuppa - either The Hood or SnowGood have reacted and changed this as Upsidedown proposed (with my "seconding"). Very genie-like? ;)
Thanks chaps! (y)
 

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I've not yet looked, but is it easy to remove ?
I used long medical style forceps, which are cheap on ebay. I originally bought them for removing leaves that had got in behind the grille. :)

Take care not to damage the low level probe.
 

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I used long medical style forceps, which are cheap on ebay. I originally bought them for removing leaves that had got in behind the grille. :)
Com ca? (On the right)
Glasses Product Wood Font Eyewear

Regular pliers on the left for scale.
OK - Mark beat me to the post!! :rolleyes:
"Obtained" a few years ago. Used for much the same purposes. (y)
Particularly good at removing leaves and other "debris" from the drainage holes under the wiper pivot points on a variety of cars. One of those tools that once you have some, you keep finding jobs they are handy for - that you never thought of before. :)
 
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