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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Yeti's
I just purchased a mid 2015 L&K TDI
My Haldex system seams to be functioning very well, but at 58,000 miles I can't see any documented evidence my Haldex 5, oil has ever been changed.

I am also due an engine oil service and have always serviced my own cars, I intend on keeping the vehicle for a long time so would like to keep up the servicing myself.
I did a search for Haldex oil and Febi Bilstien is substantially cheaper, does anyone recommend it or should I go for the VAG oil. Any links to a good supplier would appreciated.. Hope the rain stops so I can get underneath

On a side note, if anyone knows a trusted garage (that would clean and refill a Haldex properly) in the Hastings/East Sussex area that would be a great help (incase the rain doesn't stop) In future I will be doing it during the sunny months.

kind regards
Robin
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, that's the stuff. I suspect its from the same factory as the VAG oil but half the price, even most the bottles are identical with different branding.
Great, Ta
 

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You don't mention removing the pump to clean the screen, I take it you will be doing that especially if not serviced in 58,000 miles?

Same on Amazon for £20:61
 
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Discussion Starter #5
You don't mention removing the pump to clean the screen, I take it you will be doing that especially if not serviced in 58,000 miles?
Yep, definitely. `Been watching a few videos in the forum, hence not getting Skoda to do it.

Looking at engine oil filters on OPIE they look very different to what I am used to, is this an Eco alternative where you keep the canister and replace the filter?
p-117742-bosch-element-oil-filter-f026407157-p-7157-.aspx

I might have missed something in the last few years
 

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Looking at engine oil filters on OPIE they look very different to what I am used to, is this an Eco alternative where you keep the canister and replace the filter?
Yes, but not too messy.
32 mm socket to loosen filter housing then let it drain back to the engine.
Careful you don't break the plastic rod when removing filter from housing after removing from car, it can be tight, replace the 3 "O" rings on rod and filter casing before replacing.

I used this one, mine is a 1.6.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, but not too messy.
32 mm socket to loosen filter housing then let it drain back to the engine.
Careful you don't break the plastic rod when removing filter from housing after removing from car, it can be tight, replace the 3 "O" rings on rod and filter casing before replacing.
Right yes, things have changed. Do the O-rings come with the filter or is this an additional purchase?
Learning a lot today, going to pick up some car ramps next!
Thanks
 

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They should come with the filter.
5087
 
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Robin, if you do the Haldex service yourself, don’t forget to get the pump seals (neoprene O rings) before you start. Just in case you hadn’t thought of it. 😇. It isn’t the easiest of places to refill the oil from - a large syringe will make it a lot easier.
 
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Yeti S+ 2010, 2.0 TDi CR110. 2WD Manual. 232,000 mls.
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Looking at engine oil filters on OPIE they look very different to what I am used to, is this an Eco alternative where you keep the canister and replace the filter?
p-117742-bosch-element-oil-filter-f026407157-p-7157-.aspx
I might have missed something in the last few years
Yes - just as Urrell said above. Over the last 20 years or so there has been a major move away from canister or "spin-on" type filters. Back to a paper element inserted into a housing that remains a permanent part of the engine, along with one-way valves, etc. (A lot like it was in the 1950s and 60s designs). Spin-on canister types with filters included have fallen out of favour for several reasons:
  • Cost of manufacture. All those metal parts containing by-pass valves, etc. When all you really need is the (same) paper element inside.
  • Quality. In order to keep costs down to compete with just a paper element filter, too many of the internals in the metal canister filters were being specc'ed down to an unacceptable level. (Edd China did a video at one pont where he took apart several different brands of canister filter to compare the contents). As a customer, by comparison, you can see and check what you're getting more easily with a paper element - for the important bits that actually do the filtration.
  • Environmental. Instead of all those metal canisters getting dumped into landfill, a used paper element does well in an incinerator, with very little solid waste remaining. While the harmful stuff can be extracted (well, most of it) before it reaches the top of the chimney. (Same reasons why incinerators have been popping up everywhere in the last 10-15 years).

This trend has been particularly evident among German manufacturers. Where the Green Party and environmental lobby has much more influence on everyday politics and attitudes than in UK. BMW have used paper element filters across the ranges for a considerable time.

All that said - there are still a number of more modern engine designs that use metal canister spin-on filters. Among VW engines the 1.2 TSi engines, as fitted to Polo, Golf, etc. still use those. (Dunno about the 1.2 TSi in the Yeti?). I guess a lot depends still on the engine design teams priorities and how different teams perceive and act on the cost, quality and environmental aspects.

As a serial DIY oil changer (see fleet in signature), I find the paper element filters can be a lot less messy to swap, than a spin-on. Many spin-on filters are mounted horizontally on the side of the engine block. Where when you go to take them off, there is no way to avoid a trickle (or even gush?) of at least 1-200ml of used oil down the side of the block. Whereas by comparison with many of the cartridge paper element filters, where the filter body is mounted vertically with a screw on cap. Then you can allow the oil to drain out of the filter back to the sump, before you go to remove the filter completely.
 
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They relevant o-rings should come with the filter.
View attachment 5087
Especially if you stick to the more quality orientated brands, like MANN, MAHLE, BOSCH, etc.
(In fact all the BOSCH branded filters I've used in the last 3-4 years, the plastic bag in the box with them, that contains the o-rings relevant to the particular car, has had a MAHLE part number on the bag. Makes you wonder even, that while the box may say BOSCH on the outside, the filter on the inside is still a MAHLE manufactured item?)
 

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Yes, that's the stuff. I suspect its from the same factory as the VAG oil but half the price, even most the bottles are identical with different branding.
Great, Ta
Exactly! Neither VAG, nor for all I know Febi, drill for, extract and refine mineral oils themselves. Nor create synthetic oils. What usually happens is one of the oil majors or specialist lubricants companies, creates the bulk product, then packs into containers that have labels on the outside of the pack bearing either their own brand, the car makers brand, or an OE supplier's brand like Febi. As you say, the shape of the pack is often a clue to where the contents actually come from.

(Anyone confused? Think of it like cheese. Sainsburys, Tesco, Aldi, etc. don't make cheese. Different cheese makers may however pack the cheese they make into a supermarket's "own label" brand cheeses. Indeed many of the larger cheese makers may pack the very same cheese into labelled packs for several of the big supermarket chains. For example you don't see much cheddar on the shelves labelled "First Milk", or "Arla". Although Arla are trying to change that for some of the non-commodity products like yogurts or specialised cheeses, other than cheddar.)

By the same token the only thing that is VAG about engine oils, etc. is the "Quantum" label on the outside of the pack. The contents used to be Castrol. Now its Fuchs. Less sure about who makes the specialised oil for the Haldex, but one thing I am sure of - it won't be VAG. :)

Opie Oils are usually a good source of what's what, but I see you are already onto them!
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Robin, if you do the Haldex service yourself, don’t forget to get the pump seals (neoprene O rings) before you start. Just in case you hadn’t thought of it. 😇. It isn’t the easiest of places to refill the oil from - a large syringe will make it a lot easier.
Is there a part No for the pump seals?
Thanks, I wouldn't have thought of that. Have already ordered all the oils and Oil filter.
 

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Yes, same for a lot of products. 2 different factories for 20 different brands and prices varying depending on the advertising budget.
 

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Exactly! Neither VAG, nor for all I know Febi, drill for, extract and refine mineral oils themselves. Nor create synthetic oils. What usually happens is one of the oil majors or specialist lubricants companies, creates the bulk product, then packs into containers that have labels on the outside of the pack bearing either their own brand, the car makers brand, or an OE supplier's brand like Febi. As you say, the shape of the pack is often a clue to where the contents actually come from.

(Anyone confused? Think of it like cheese. Sainsburys, Tesco, Aldi, etc. don't make cheese. Different cheese makers may however pack the cheese they make into a supermarket's "own label" brand cheeses. Indeed many of the larger cheese makers may pack the very same cheese into labelled packs for several of the big supermarket chains. For example you don't see much cheddar on the shelves labelled "First Milk", or "Arla". Although Arla are trying to change that for some of the non-commodity products like yogurts or specialised cheeses, other than cheddar.)

By the same token the only thing that is VAG about engine oils, etc. is the "Quantum" label on the outside of the pack. The contents used to be Castrol. Now its Fuchs. Less sure about who makes the specialised oil for the Haldex, but one thing I am sure of - it won't be VAG. :)

Opie Oils are usually a good source of what's what, but I see you are already onto them!
Opie seem to have a good range at decent prices, got all the fluids from them including the AdBlue. Went for the Bosch filter, looking forward to getting to work.
 

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Is there a part No for the pump seals?
Thanks, I wouldn't have thought of that. Have already ordered all the oils and Oil filter.
Take a look on eBay. You can buy complete kits: oil/seals/syringe. Shop around though as prices differ.
 
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Went for the Bosch filter, looking forward to getting to work.
:) The Bosch oil filter part number for an EA189 2.0 TDi is “P7023”. If the plastic bag holding the 3 o-rings has a part number like “OX388”, then it’s really a MAHLE filter, in a Bosch box. :oops:(y)

Here’s a real “nerdy”/anorak/detail pedant story for you:
When I ran a series of Ford Escort RS2000 models, three in a row, all Mk1, I was a member of both the RS and AVO owners clubs for quite a few years. (Ford’s Advanced Vehicles Operations unit being the special small plant where all the Mexico and Mk1 RS models were assembled. Mk2 bodyshell version’s being assembled at Saarlouis). The Mexico and RS (1600 or 2000) shared a Special Tuning, 60-page additional parts catalogue. From where you could buy all the extra tuning bits from roll cages, to competition seats, to upgraded carburettors, camshafts, etc. To transform your road going car to competition ready. The local group of RS Owners, used to run evening pub quiz style evenings. Where one person would look up a page from the ST catalogue, describe the part then ask “What’s the part number”. Or “What is a 905-213-465?” It always surprised me how many folks knew all the right answers! Now that’s “specialised knowledge”! :rolleyes: :oops:🏆:)
 
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Discussion Starter #20
:) The Bosch oil filter part number for an EA189 2.0 TDi is “P7023”. If the plastic bag holding the 3 o-rings has a part number like “OX388”, then it’s really a MAHLE filter, in a Bosch box. :oops:(y)

Here’s a real “nerdy”/anorak/detail pedant story for you:
When I ran a series of Ford Escort RS2000 models, three in a row, all Mk1, I was a member of both the RS and AVO owners clubs for quite a few years. (Ford’s Advanced Vehicles Operations unit being the special small plant where all the Mexico and Mk1 RS models were assembled. Mk2 bodyshell version’s being assembled at Saarlouis). The Mexico and RS (1600 or 2000) shared a Special Tuning, 60-page additional parts catalogue. From where you could buy all the extra tuning bits from roll cages, to competition seats, to upgraded carburettors, camshafts, etc. To transform your road going car to competition ready. The local group of RS Owners, used to run evening pub quiz style evenings. Where one person would look up a page from the ST catalogue, describe the part then ask “What’s the part number”. Or “What is a 905-213-465?” It always surprised me how many folks knew all the right answers! Now that’s “specialised knowledge”! :rolleyes: :oops:🏆:)
I like it, good to have some proper advice.
I read a few stories about people mixing up the "diff drain hole" with the "Haldex drain", is that an easy mistake on the yeti? Most of the 'How To instructions' I have found were for Tiguan and other VW models so not sure if its an issue, not got my ramps yet to have a proper look.
 
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