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Discussion Starter #1
Just having a look at what is involved in a diy oil change, the Yeti's first, and more importantly my first. Popped the cover off and immediately have a problem. Assess to the filter is terrible. What has to be moved (and how)?





Pug, if you're out there, or anyone who's successfully done this, I need a little hand holding through the process.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ok, worked out the first problem. Everything in the way is attached to one bracket secured by a torx bolt. Luckily bought a torx driver set for the mudflaps, so that's one obstacle removed.
It's still a small gap, any tips or tricks to getting the filter out without making a mess?
 

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The engine looks clean which suggests that it is a fairly new car, is this an interim oil change, or is the vehicle out of warranty and you are doing your own servicing? If it is an interim change with the scheduled ones being done at the dealer, others on the forum have used a Pela 6000. This sucks the oil out via the dipstick. That would enable an oil change with no dismantling, although it does not replace the filter.Suzuki has done this, so you could search through his posts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes it's an interim change, but I think I'll be doing all the changes myself and taking it to a VW specialist for the things I'm not comfortable doing. Jf nothing goes wrong (warranty issues) it'll never set a tyre back at a dealer, such is my respect for them.

I've read Suzuki's posts, but he has a petrol, when I looked at the 112 / 118tsi it's filter was very easy to get at, so was hoping for some diesel experience.

You were going to do an oil change, did you get around to it?

I have a Mityvac 7201 extractor, so I'm already on the same wavelength.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi sangke, I just checked the socket size, and it is definitely 32mm, which is just as well since I only have 27mm, 30mm and 32mm in that range. Is the UK different?

When you refit the filter, I've read you should pour some of the new oil through the oil filter housing to prevent oil starvation at startup. Is this possible with this filter design? Or does it just run back into the sump?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My first oil change completed without incident.


I took the Yeti for a 15 minute run (oil temperature was up to 92c) then gave it a 5 minute rest. I don't have any perfectly flat area to work, so elected to have it pointing nose downhill slightly (rear wheels about 6" higher), and also leaning slightly to the left (about 3-4") putting the dipstick at the lowest corner.

The Mityvac 7201 worked perfectly, 10 pumps and the oil was flowing freely. The oil level before starting was about 2/3's of the way up the hashed area of the dipstick. I was expecting the fill to be 4.3 L, (or maybe less if the extractor couldn't get it all), but got this


The 2 marks are 4L and 5L (measured with an accurate water jug, and marked previously).
So about 4.75 L. By the way the 6mm hose slides in easily for about 60cm but then stops. A bit of twisting and pressure gets it moving another 15 - 20cm when it actually hits bottom.

Replaced the filter, and refilled with Fuchs Titan GT1 PRO C3.

Went for another run, and everything seems fine
 

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Common Copper head get your hands dirty. No just kidding any time you change your oil is a good thing.

Even though you might not get out all the crap out.But hey what a great oil choice.

Pug
 

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Discussion Starter #12
PUG said:
Common Copper head get your hands dirty.
Pug
Hands dirty? How uncouth, I did the whole job with one glove a few paper towels, and without spilling a drop of oil. Sad to hear people still climb under their cars


Pug, do you know how much you drained out each time?
 

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Just picked up on this interesting thread and having just carried out my 3rd "interim" Oil and Filter change I would comment as follows.
The Oil Change is the easiest part of the exercise, the Filter change is a pain. I would have thought that any home mechanic will have access to a pair of ramps which are essential to be able to work under the car. With Sump Guard removed it's a good time to have a good root around under there. It was during my first Oil and Filter change at around 800 miles that I noticed that I had a badly assembled Drive shaft / C.V. Joint "Boot". Most of the lube had escaped from the joint and spread it's way along the Driveshaft. If I hadn,t removed the Sump Guard to change the oil in the conventional way this would have gone un-detected for 18,000 miles or when the Joint fails (which ever comes first !!).
Also it's good to see the hot Oil gushing from the Sump drain and carrying any nasty bits of junk with it. Note that a new combined drain Plug and Seal Ring are required when re-assembling.
The filter design is very "Old School" and the Housing location is very poor. Yes it is possible to access by displacing some of the surrounding plumbing and removal of the paper Filter is then relatively easy. It's the re-assembly which is tricky. In the three times I have done this I have never been 100% happy that I have got everything right. Make sure that the new Filter is the correct way "up". The "very" faint printed lettering on the Filter end should be at the "TOP". Note that it will look like the centre hole of the "removed" Filter looks bigger than the new one as the hole is "enlarged" during assembly by fitting over the centre "Rod" and locating into it's position in the Housing. Sounds complicated and it is.
Anyhow, 3rd home change done yesterday and no leaks so I guess I must have got it right again.
I have been told by the Dealer that on the 2.0 TDi 110 Engine there is two types of Filter so your Reg / VIN No will be needed at the parts counter.
Cheers. Mike Tee. Black 2.0 TDi. 110. 20,600 Miles and 4 Oil Changes.

Edited by: Mike Tee
 
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