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Discussion Starter #1
Yet another roof bar question ! (Sorry)I have just bought a set of Genuine Skoda roof bars for our Yeti, fitting them looks straight forward enough however before I get the allen key out , I notice that where the roof bars actually fit ( i.e. where you put the 8 special screws that resemble greas nipplesinto the roof rails themselves) It looksas if there are 'inserts' that you take out before you put the screws in, am I right or do you leave those 8 little thingies in and the screws go straight into those?
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Thanks in advance,
Roy
 

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The screws go straight in to the inserts.
 

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RickT said:
The screws go straight in to the inserts.
Indeed!
Beware though, not to overtighten the screws. If you do, you risk spinning the threaded inserts inside the roof rail. Which could only be rectified by replacing the entire rail.

From memory the tightening torque is as little as 4 Nm (in new money?)
That is barely more than finger tight!

The screws you have, should have come with thread lock compound on the threaded shanks. ""Loctite""� or similar.
So they won't shake loose, despite the low torque.
If no thread lock compound is already pre-applied, I recommend adding some.

Once inserted, that does mean though, they effectively become a permanent part of the car. Not recommended to attempt removal, as the risk of just spinning the female inserts inside the rail is even greater. Although a few folks have reported they have removed the screws OK, without damage, that isn't recommended.

If you change Yetis to a car that does not already have screws added to accept the cross-bars, fresh screws are available (usually) from dealers. For the purpose. So you can keep the bars when you swap cars.

Earlier Pre-FL Yeti have 5 screws per side. So you have an alternative position for the rear cross-bar.
Post-FL Yeti have 4 screws/side. Giving just one position for the rear bar.

Once the screws are fitted and set in place. Clipping on or off the cross bars becomes a doddle. (Unless you are vertically challenged, then you just need a step.)

Have fun! Edited by: Flintstone
 

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Just like spanners come in a size relative to the strength of what they tighten (hope that makes sense) the bolts if bought as a set come with a small thin Allen key which would be quite uncomfortable when over tightening.
 

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It's a torq 15 driver bit that you need for the bolt rather than allen key and Flintstone's memory is working very well as the installation instructions do recommend 4Nm torque for the bolts.
 

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I stand corrected a torx bit rather than an Allen key, but the point I was making was the size of the tool supplied to avoid over tightening, as below.

Edited by: The Hood
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for that info. I have torx tools too good job really as the bars came with the bolts of course but no tool was suppliedEdited by: Roy_H
 

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SnowGood said:
.......Flintstone's memory is working very well as the installation instructions do recommend 4Nm torque for the bolts.
Wow! Thanks for that. After that feat, I'd better go lie down in a darkened room for a while, before my last brain cell overheats? ˜³
 

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Don't forget the Loctite Roy ‘�
 

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Roy_H said:
The little studs have blue loctite on them already.

The second hand set of bars i bought had the studs with them
They did have some blue loctite left on them as they had been used and removed by the previous owner.
They were used by me in that condition without putting any further on, still in place now.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for all the help guys, I fitted mine this morning ( In between the snowstorms!)
Edited by: Roy_H
 

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Threadweld will be a better option if you need to remove them,
loctite sounds too final
 

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baron said:
Threadweld will be a better option if you need to remove them,
loctite sounds too final

Never heard of Threadweld, perhaps you could put a link up to it.
Blue Loctite should make them fairly easily removable.
 

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the ones i purchased second hand had blue on them, so they are removable
 

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Help please, the link for the fitting instructions isn't working and I desperate to get hold of them , thank you
 

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Chris - the official Skoda destructions say little more than:
  • Obtain set of screws/studs/bolts for fitting to the rails. New bolts should be delivered pre-coated with blue thread lock compound.
  • Four per side required for a FL Yeti. Five per side for a pre-FL.
  • Locate factory fitted captive nuts, fitted flush into the inner face of each roof rail.
  • Carefully insert each stud / bolt into its nut inside the roof rail face. Taking to ensure the bolts are not cross-threaded. NOTE: the inner faces of the roof rails have a slight inward angle as they slope down. This means the bolts should not be inserted horizontal or parallel to the roof, but a slight (approx. 5-10 degree downward angle from the horizontal). In order to fit properly into the pre-threaded roof rails.
  • Use a T15 torx key to tighten each bolt to a maximum of 4Nm. (As you have found already in the post from SnowGood above. This is so low as to be barely finger tight. Hardly needs a key/spanner at all. Beware not to over-tighten).
  • Ideally leave for several minutes / up to an hour for the thread lock to "set". (Not strictly necessary. Just something I've added to be absolutely safe if you are unsure. Blue thread lock normally sets pretty much right away).

  • Edit (12:45 11/10/20): I see the latest official Skoda instructions say mounting bolts can be removed and refitted up to 3 times. Still need to take care that they remove easily and only if not seized into the captive nuts.
Now you are ready to clamp the roof bars into place. :)
 
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