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Discussion Starter #1
After only 3 weeks of owning our 2017 plate Yeti, the fuel gauge has stopped working.

after from returning from a outing yesterday the tank was on just under half full so I panicked and shot up to the service station and found it only needed £30 of fuel.

so it seems that the gauge or sender unit has failed only after 2.5 years.

having owned many many cars vans trucks etc over the years this is a first.

I live some 60 miles from my dealer so it looks like more money to chuck at it.
is the sender unit easy to get at and replace as I would give it a try and sort it out myself.

its still under warrant, should I risk on taking it back or just wait awhile to see if it rights itself.

cheers.
 

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Did the fuel gauge move after you filled it?
£30 of fuel to fill from just under half full sounds about right to me, especially since fuel has come down in price so much lately.
£1:20 for unleaded and £1:22 for diesel around here at the moment.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Did the fuel gauge move after you filled it?
£30 of fuel to fill from just under half full sounds about right to me, especially since fuel has come down in price so much lately.
£1:20 for unleaded and £1:22 for diesel around here at the moment.
The gauge is not working it’s showing empty. The amber light is on.
 

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What Urrell said. :)

Also, why the panic? Half a tank full of diesel is easily 250 to 300 miles of range in our Yeti, with the older version of the same 110 CR motor as yours. Surely you would be passing a fuel pump within that sort of driving range? We don’t even think about filling up till the tank gets well below a 1/4. Often till the orange light starts flashing, when there is frequently still 60-70 miles easy left, counting the pessimistic gauge. Only on a trip to the North Coast 500 area of north west Scotland would I be thinking of filling up from half a tank or just below, before heading north of a line from Oban to Aberdeen.

That said I have been known to top up from the 1/4 to 1/2 tank level - when driving past the Morrison’s outlet in Horsforth, Leeds. Near our daughter’s. Where diesel is 5p/litre less than at the Morrison’s at home 20 miles away. Just to take advantage of the price difference.

Or does the range anxiety stem from having been used to an EV in the past?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What Urrell said. :)

Also, why the panic? Half a tank full of diesel is easily 250 to 300 miles of range in our Yeti, with the older version of the same 110 CR motor as yours. Surely you would be passing a fuel pump within that sort of driving range? We don’t even think about filling up till the tank gets well below a 1/4. Often till the orange light starts flashing, when there is frequently still 60-70 miles easy left, counting the pessimistic gauge. Only on a trip to the North Coast 500 area of north west Scotland would I be thinking of filling up from half a tank or just below, before heading north of a line from Oban to Aberdeen.

That said I have been known to top up from the 1/4 to 1/2 tank level - when driving past the Morrison’s outlet in Horsforth, Leeds. Near our daughter’s. Where diesel is 5p/litre less than at the Morrison’s at home 20 miles away. Just to take advantage of the price difference.

Or does the range anxiety stem from having been used to an EV in the past?
I said in my first paragraph that the fuel gauge has stopping working?
 

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Can someone help out here? Am I going mad? Did I say that the fuel gauge has stop working,
 

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The gauge is not working it’s showing empty. The amber light is on.
That #3 came in while I was writing my message at #5 above.

OK - so almost certainly a sender fault then. Is it still showing empty after the fill up?

To the best of my knowledge the sender is buried and only accessible from the top of the tank. So definitely an appointment for attention at the dealer while under warranty then!

In the meantime just keep a mental note of how many miles driven and top up when estimated below 1/4 full. The manually zeroed trip meter should be a help with that. If reset only when you fill up. (The meter that is always visible alongside the total mileage reading. Not the trip computer one that resets itself every night). I once had a Ford Escort that ran for over 12-months with an inoperative fuel gauge. That showed permanently full. On only a 9 gallon tank at 22-24 mpg.
 

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The problem could also be in the small control unit that lives under the cover under the RH/middle rear seats. VCDS, one of the phone apps or the delaer VAS system will be needed to check for faults codes, to give some idea on which part of the system is at fault.
Sadly, if it's the in-tank pump/sender unit the first part of the job is drain the tank. It may be worth delaying any action until you've used up some fuel.
Naturally, there is a special tool required to undo the retaining ring on the top of the tank for the pump/sender unit.

A couple of possibly relevant fuses in the end of the dashboard are:
Fuse 9 - voltage regulator, int lights and rear fog light. If interior lights work, fuse must be ok.
Fuse 28 - Fuel pump, injection valves. Your car still drives so pump must run ergo . . . .
 
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Can someone help out here? Am I going mad? Did I say that the fuel gauge has stop working,
It would appear so, yes. :)

Because in your OP you said, or implied, that the tank “was on just under half full”. Without giving any further evidence of the gauge reading. So like Urrell, I read that as meaning the gauge was on a reading of half full, before you rushed off to fill up the tank. In a self-confessed “panic”.

“Stopped working” could be and was easily misunderstood as stuck on a reading of around half full. Only in #3 that came later, is the helpful information given about what the gauge is actually displaying.

Also bear in mind that your additional information at #3 did not become visible to me until after I had posted #5. Because I could not see your newer message at #3 while I was still writing mine. :). At that time I could only see as far as #2.
 
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Cpl. Jones: “DON’T PANIC, DON’T PANIC”.
Capt. Mainwaring: “Calm Down Jones!”. :)

Meanwhile, Bryetian’s information should be very useful. For the intermediate weeks until a convenient dealer appointment can be found, that perhaps needn’t involve a special trip for a single purpose only?
 

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.. having owned many many cars vans trucks etc over the years this is a first.
You’ve been fortunate perhaps? :)
Besides the aforementioned Escort, I also had an Isuzu Trooper for 18-months (LWB, 2.8 litre 4-cyl petrol with balancer shafts, 18mpg when trying carefully). Japanese build quality. Period Japanese steel quality and rust issues. That also had a fuel level sender that would fail every three months or so. Leaving the dashboard gauge reading empty. After removing the tank to replace the sender the first time, I discovered that was caused by a poorly designed connector on top of the tank. That allowed moisture ingress. After that it became possible to fix it each time just by dropping the tank enough to reach the connector, clean it and replace. About 2 hours work including dropping off all the underbody guards to get at the tank mountings. I sold it on during a period when the gauge was working. :)
Never did get around to rewiring and bypassing the naff connector.
 

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Since the car is under warranty, I'd simply take it back, take a courtesy car and collect it when it is fixed.

A fuel pump/sender unit is around £80 for a non-4WD car however I have found a seller of just the sender unit on ebay: Fuel Tank Sender Unit Fits VW SEAT SKODA AUDI Beetle Caddy III IV 1K0919673K | eBay
Searching on the part number will bring up other sellers.
An OEM part would be pump/sender combined. It looks like some soldering or crimping of wire is required.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Since the car is under warranty, I'd simply take it back, take a courtesy car and collect it when it is fixed.

A fuel pump/sender unit is around £80 for a non-4WD car however I have found a seller of just the sender unit on ebay: Fuel Tank Sender Unit Fits VW SEAT SKODA AUDI Beetle Caddy III IV 1K0919673K | eBay
Searching on the part number will bring up other sellers.
An OEM part would be pump/sender combined. It looks like some soldering or crimping of wire is required.
My apologies to you all, I suffer from Dyslexia so what I see is not always correct.

I will book it in to my local dealer on Monday. I don’t use the car for work so the full tank will last us for a month or two.
Again sorry for my way of saying things.
 

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Excellent advice from Bryetian again there!
 

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Apology accepted. (y)

I’ve known three people, each very well, who were officially and medically diagnosed dyslexic.
  • one was a senior regional manager in a company I used to work for. Right up to retirement. Very bright chap indeed. Very amenable disposition with it and a great after dinner raconteur.
  • one held a first class degree in agriculture with a specialisation in population genetics and was my boss in another company, for 9 years till she left to start a family.
  • the third gained a 1st class degree in law from University of Cambridge. Currently researching for a PhD in law at UCL.
Also a fourth who was so short-sighted to be on the cusp of being medically declared “blind”. Wasn’t allowed anywhere near the driving seat of a car for example. As could not see the windscreen, let alone the end of the bonnet. Yet held two PhD’s in numerical genetics, human and farmed species, from universities in Australia and Scotland. Was also an ace at programming in the FORTRAN computer language.

What I’m saying is don’t do yourself down, or talk yourself into a panic, because of a disability of that nature. :)
Dyslexia and critical thinking whilst remaining calm under pressure need not be mutually exclusive. But can indeed be bedfellows.

We all have a cross to bear. Mine is inability to stop reading and responding to stuff on this forum. :D:eek::rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update, just got in the car this morning and the fuel gauge is working again.
Will keep and eye on it and post my updates.
 

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Update, just got in the car this morning and the fuel gauge is working again.
Will keep and eye on it and post my updates.
Faults that fix themselves permanently are rare, so it may come back at some point.

Maybe the float and arm in the tank are becoming stuck at their lower extremity of movement. If the gauge stops working again and stays on zero/empty, you could try driving over a bumpy road to see if that 'unsticks' the float/arm.

Since the car is under warranty, it may be worth a quick email to the dealer to get the issue on record.
 

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Just a thought, Guttergecko:

Do you by chance park on a steep drive or similar? If I drive home with the low fuel warning light illuminated then reverse up my steep drive and park, I find I can drive away later with the fuel gauge showing one-third full and the warning light extinguished. I believe this to be the effect of the shape of the tank.
 
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