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The 110 is a detuned version of the 140.
The 170 has a bigger turbocharger.

Simple version, excluding all the little bits and bobs.

That's why a 110 and a 140 will both remap to around 180 while a 170 will remap to about 210.
 

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Just read your interest in engine PS it seems it is a term used only by car makers, use kilowatts instead or brake horse power PS = 98.6% of a brake horse or 1KW = 1.34BHP
my question is if you re-map the engine could it effect the speedo reading on the car i would think the speedo is electronic hence my question,or am i being a old fart
 

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Normal vehicles receive an electronic pulse from a sender fitted to the tailshaft of the gearbox, so no matter what you do to the engine it remains the same, however if you change the size of the wheels, which in turn changes the rolling circumference sizes, you will get a false speedo reading.

Not having checked, I presume the Yeti has this system.
 

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thanks for the explanation , on the speedo question i always say you are never to old to learn ,and when you think you know it all you no nothing .
 

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Anyone done a re-map ? what would the cost be? and any real advantage?I've got a 110 urban its got enough poke but how would a re-map change things?
Cheers
 

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Although a remap is the best way to increase performance, I made a few inquiries to my insurance company, they told me if I make any permanent changes to the performance, I had to declare it with details. If on the other hand I use a chip box which is not a permanent fixture, I only need to inform them if the performance is boosted by 25% or more.
I was given a box from a VW Golf Blue motion from a friend, I got in touch with the manufacturer in Germany, who for a few sheckles sent me a cable and instructions as to fine tuning. I have since played and have increased (according to the mapping graphs they sent me) the PS from 107 to 127 and you can feel the diference. On the MPG side, if I use the power, my MPG has dropped but If I drive it for enconomy, I did obtain a maxidot reading of 76 MPG over a 25 mile run. My maxidot average MPG over the last 2 months show 57.8, so all in all I am pleased with what I acheived.
 

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Thanks Tech, more computer knowledge than mech knowlege needed for this you think ?Do you reckon any of the VAG group blue / green motion chips would do the job ?
Just need to find a a good salvage yard ! not many left nowadays.
Cheers
 

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I think the engine match for your's is the Golf 6 2.0 TDi, but I can't be certain, but my box was an exact match to the Golf 6 Bluemotion, so I had no prob's. My box originally came from:
http://www.racechip.de/index.php but the cable was different, so I had to buy a new one. They also supplied a dummy plug to replace the box when it goes in for service.
If you check through their listings, I'm sure you can make a list of matching VAG vehicles.
 

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I bought a Racechip for ny previous 140 Tdi. I felt it made the engine feel smoother, peppier and I'm convinced the mpg improved.

I've just installed it on my 140 DSG Yeti and feel the same benefits.

For the cost I think it's been worthwhile. My insurers - Saga - have not increased my premium.

John Edited by: jst_at_home
 

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I have seen a few chips on e-bay ranging from a few quid to several hundred quid, anyone bought one or know someone who has ?went to the site posted by Tech and seems i can get one for 130euro
 

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Brien B said:
I have seen a few chips on e-bay ranging from a few quid to several hundred quid, anyone bought one or know someone who has ?went to the site posted by Tech and seems i can get one for 130euro
The main thing to check when buying a chip box is that its like the one I have, (Racechip) and connects to the common rail and the boost pressure sensor as well.
If you choose one that just conects to the common rail all it does is inject more fuel to give more power, these tend to muck up the DPF more quickly, whereas the one I have remaps the air and fuel to give more power and more mpg if you drive it eco style and doesn't effect the DPF.
 

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I tested a DTUK box that fits onto the fueling and boost and it made a noticable difference.
The only thing I didn't like was it had a big slug of torque around 2000prm, which made it feel quicker than it was, but is not always good for the car.
I am not a big fan of torque spikes.

I then had a trial remap on the same car from Jabbasport.
It was just as quick, but didn't feel quite as quick as the turbo came in due to the power being more smooth and therefore IMO better for the car.

This was on a 170 CR 4x4 though, not a 110.
Both these options give you around 200-210bhp.

Overall I personally prefered the remap.
 

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Just for those who are not in the know.
The boost pressure sensor on my Yeti Greenline is fitted to the intercooler pipe below the radiator, so removal of the under engine plastic cover is required, 8 screws,3 bolts, all Torx heads, but very easy to do, even on your back.
The purpose of the sensor is to send values to the ECU, this data is then used to calculate the air density and flow rate, the ECU then works out the required fuel for optimum combustion. The signal sent to the common rail from the ECU is then interupted by the Racechip box and recalculated into the necessary values for fuel and duration of that fuel (power band) to give an increase in PS.
The Racechip box allows you to fine tune the amount of boost and the rev range you want it to work in.



Edited by: Tech-Yeti
 

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Gonna look into the basic one from the site you posted, Tech, £100 quidalways better to know someone in the know has tried , tested or looked into something first.
My buddy got a re-map "not a chip" on one of his new Audi A4s from a well known company and it effected the clutch on the car "Burnt it out" might have been a one off but you never know so don't really want to go down that road just in case.
 

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Brien B said:
My buddy got a re-map "not a chip" on one of his new Audi A4s from a well known company and it effected the clutch on the car "Burnt it out" might have been a one off but you never know so don't really want to go down that road just in case.
Yes sometimes if the map is set too high on either a remap or tuning box, you get pre-detenation (pinking/rattle sound) when pulling away and the way to combat it is to slip the clutch keeping the revs high when pulling away.
The proper way is to remap it again or turn the tune settings down a click on a box.
 

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Tech-Yeti said:
Brien B said:
My buddy got a re-map "not a chip" on one of his new Audi A4s from a well known company and it effected the clutch on the car "Burnt it out" might have been a one off but you never know so don't really want to go down that road just in case.
Yes sometimes if the map is set too high on either a remap or tuning box, you get pre-detenation (pinking/rattle sound) when pulling away and the way to combat it is to slip the clutch keeping the revs high when pulling away.
The proper way is to remap it again or turn the tune settings down a click on a box.
I have the "basic" Racehip box. For anyone thinking of taking the plunge, I found Racechips extremely good to deal with. Although I think I recall that the box camewith a general setting,as Tech-Yeti says, the box allows adjustment to fine tune to the drivers preference.

John
 

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Hi all.

Have been in talks with Revo-although they have done development work with Skoda, (furthurmore, I was told, their re-map can be specified in some non UK countries as an upgrade from build point)-Skoda UK will not entertain this as an aftermarket option and will void warranty-the remap will flag up as soon as the diagnostic port is utilised for service/updates etc-the base line is....don,t do it-at least not until out of claim territory!

I was also informed that Skoda have been known to honour warranty repairs even up to 5 years after purchase if the customer has all service schedules adhered to....so, am going to wait the full three years and then go for it!

As regards non UK spec-wondered if there was a case there for trading standards?-perhaps should have ordered car from abroad?

Cant wait for 210BHP and all that lovely mid-range torque!

S/C
 
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