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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
G'day there.
I'm hoping the Yeti experts can help me with info on installation of the Skoda storage boxes designed to be mounted under the Yeti front seats.
I've just ordered and received (from the Czech Rep) left side and right side genuine OEM Skoda under seat storage boxes which come with mounting trays. However, there are no instructions or paperwork and I'm not sure which is the left tray and left box, and which is the right tray and right box. Although requested, I've so far been unable to get any information about how to correctly identify and install the trays and boxes.
I'd really like to have some idea of what I'm doing before I start pulling out front seats or disconnecting anything. So I'd be really grateful if anyone could help with any information about installation, or direct me to any source for instructions in English.
Thanks - poitr
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Groiupie, really appreciate the link, although after looking at it, it looks a bit daunting.
Poitr
 

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I've been called worse!
 

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Like others before me, mine came with the passenger box already fitted and, after much consideration as whether it would be worth the effort for so little additional storage, I finally purchased a driver's side one and fitted it today. I am indebted to everyone who has posted about this on this site and also found the link to the Briskoda site very helpful. I would like to urge anyone who is is intending to do the same, to look at the guide from "Sanqhar" on the Briskoda post AND THEN scroll down to the post from "Nigel", who recommends unbolting the seat rails. I found this was definitely the way to go, but you will need a suitable sized Torx bit to do it. With the seat tipped back it is then fairly staightforward except for the last fixing, which secures the front of the plastic seat trim, but don't let this put you off. Is the extra storage worth the cost and the work? Not really, but it does make the two seats match nicely!
 

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It is just about possible to fit without removing the seat, but I have a Facom Nano 360 socket set which made this a bit easier.I find the under seat storage so so useful and once you get used to jumping in reaching down and opening the drawer and dropping your wallet, keys, etc in it, you will wonder how you did without it, it's ideal.
 

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Yes I agree really-the box is a useful addition now I've done it. Incidentally I had read Chocki's advice (good advice on other subjects too, thanks Chocki) in another post regarding its fitting and this also helped me decide to buy one and install it successfully. The partially unbolting and tipping back of the seat (NOT its removal) is not absolutely necessary as he says, but it is an easy step to take and gives so much more clearance for access to those pesky fixings.
 

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I have finally got round to purchasing an under seat drawer. I am using an instruction thread on the Darkside (see ref above) and have decided to follow the unbolt the seat route which makes access to the underside of the seat much easier. Problem is that the bolts that hold the seat to the rails seem to be some odd (?) type. I thought intially that they might be T50 or T55 but neither fit. The former is a slack fit, the latter too big, Then I noticed that the number of spaces for the bit splines is greater than that of a Torx. Ideas please.
 

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Ask one of the Forum Administrators to search for you. A couple of years ago a member successfully did what you are trying to do and accompanied his "work through" with useful photos. I kept the details for a while, then the Forum format changed and I forgot all about it - sorry.
 

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Think this is what Ruari meant though it's in yetipedia so easily found. Not sure it helps with the question though.

 

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Think this is what Ruari meant though it's in yetipedia so easily found. Not sure it helps with the question though.
Thanks Ken, that's just the ticket!!
Sorry but I wouldn't know how to trawl Yetipedia (!!) and I don't think I need to at present:rolleyes:;)
 

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Sorry but I wouldn't know how to trawl Yetipedia
No knowledge needed it's got an index.
 
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Morning Gentlemen. The thread you have referenced (thanks for looking) is the one I am using, but sourced through 'that other forum'. If you look at the third photo you'll see the bolt I'm querying.
 

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Yeti S+ 2010 2.0TDi CFHA 110 2WD Manual
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Problem is that the bolts that hold the seat to the rails seem to be some odd (?) type. I thought intially that they might be T50 or T55 but neither fit. The former is a slack fit, the latter too big, Then I noticed that the number of spaces for the bit splines is greater than that of a Torx. Ideas please.
Hi to NZL.
My guess is the bolts you are looking at have “triple square” or “XZN” heads. So called because the splines are arranged as a series of three squares, superimposed on each other, each rotated by 30degrees compared to the last. So you end up with 12 points in each head recess. Compared to six points on a true Torx style head.

I used to think “triple square” and “spline” bolt heads were the same thing, but have learned today that every point on a triple square has faces at a 90 degree angle. While a spline has 60 degree faces. (Today’s new learning before 9 a.m. (UK time)). Although in adverts for sockets the words “spline” and “triple square” often being used as if they were the same. True “Splines” more usually being found in much larger size on drive shaft ends, etc. They do look superficially similar though, just different sizes.

So you’ve passed the first hurdle ahead of the pack, by realising that Torx socket bits won’t fit. And would risk destroying the bolt’s points if you tried to use a Torx bit to unscrew your bolts. (y)

Triple square bolts are often found on most makes of German cars, VW especially. Usually in places where high torque fastenings are required in relation to the bolt head diameter. Cylinder head bolts, wheel hubs and those infamous Yeti rear brake pad carrier to hub bolts for example. Common sizes are 6mm, 8, 10 and 12mm internal diameter. With matching socket sizes having an “M” prefix, followed by a diameter number. (I think, although I’m having trouble matching the numbers on my sockets to a measured diameter?)

I managed to find a set of 8 male head sockets via eBay, from M4 up to M16, with the smallest three on 1/4” drives, middle three on 3/8” and largest two on 1/2” drive to take the torque. Not unlike this 10-bit set seen from Amazon.
 

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Bryetian & Flintstone: As the technical term goes "Gotcha" Thanks. Now I know what "Triple Square" / "XZN" bolts are. Just when I thought I'd got a complete set of 'bits' now I have to buy yet another muliple piece set! (Might as well as there are bound to be other sizes I need judging by Flinstone's post.)
 

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If not too tight would a metric or imperial allen key fit.
Unfortunately, the answer is “No”. :(
Been there, made that mistake.

Allen keys are hexagonal. Their corner angles are at 120 degrees so don’t fit the internal angles of the bolt heads, even with a “hammer fit”. :oops: They can however make a very good job of reaming the internal points off a triple square bolt head, so even the correct triple square socket bit won’t fit afterwards. :rolleyes:

Edit: An Allen key can sometimes work on female Torx bolt heads. If not torqued or corroded too tightly. As those are also hexagonal by number of points and hollows. Still a big risk of removing the points from the bolt head though.
 

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Glad to see that the forums reputation of encouraging others to spend money is being upheld. Good luck with the job.
 
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