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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Having a knocking noise since i purchased the car and noticed many asking on here i thought that i may have found it when i had the MOT, I was informed that the n/s anti roll bar arm bush is the cause (definetely of one noise)Having dismissed loose rear hatch stoppers and the rear parcel shelf as some had suggested as not being the cause and have not replaced the bush yet, i was cleaning car tonight and sitting next to the rear wheel to clean the awkward thing i touched the cover on the rear shocker, and it moved.

I would wager that this is the main cause for all them knocking noises everyone may get on there Yeti
 

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Yeti S+ 2010 2.0TDi CR110 2WD Manual
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ARB drop link ball joint failures are a very common MOT fail item on a wide range of cars. By no means confined to Yeti. I I""˜ve just replaced front drop links on our Yeti, as its two years since it had new struts. My last BMW needed new front drop links at around 150,000. This one had new links on the rear, this time last year, when replacing the rear springs and dampers. It also needed new front struts two weeks ago, so I had the drop links replaced at the same time as a matter of routine.

Worn ARB drop links certainly create a knocking noise on the road. Either front or rear. Fronts usually go first. Very difficult to detect though when you have the car jacked up with the wheels off the ground, as on full droop, the play in the joints is all taken up. You have to check them with the weight on the wheels.

Dutchman - you don't say if your MOT fail item was on a front or rear drop link? Unless I've missed it? I'm guessing a rear if that's where you're looking for the noise coming from? The dust/mud cover shroud that sits on top of the rear dampers is indeed visible over the top of the rear wheels. (Along with the yellow/orange bump stops). The black plastic shroud is designed to be flexible. While it doesn't normally move a lot, as it is fixed to the lower end of the bump stop. some movement and flexibility has to be designed in. So when the damper body pushes up at full travel towards the bump stop, the shroud can move with it for the last few cm of travel. It shouldn't create a knocking noise though, unless it's been mis-aligned or distorted through damage. And then not a kind of noise you would hear from inside the car. Anything is possible though?

More will be revealed on how these components fit together when I get round to writing up my threatened photo description of how to replace the bump stops. ‚
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Flintstone said:
ARB drop link ball joint failures are a very common MOT fail item on a wide range of cars. By no means confined to Yeti. I I""˜ve just replaced front drop links on our Yeti, as its two years since it had new struts. My last BMW needed new front drop links at around 150,000. This one had new links on the rear, this time last year, when replacing the rear springs and dampers. It also needed new front struts two weeks ago, so I had the drop links replaced at the same time as a matter of routine.

Worn ARB drop links certainly create a knocking noise on the road. Either front or rear. Fronts usually go first. Very difficult to detect though when you have the car jacked up with the wheels off the ground, as on full droop, the play in the joints is all taken up. You have to check them with the weight on the wheels.

Dutchman - you don't say if your MOT fail item was on a front or rear drop link? Unless I've missed it? I'm guessing a rear if that's where you're looking for the noise coming from? The dust/mud cover shroud that sits on top of the rear dampers is indeed visible over the top of the rear wheels. (Along with the yellow/orange bump stops). The black plastic shroud is designed to be flexible. While it doesn't normally move a lot, as it is fixed to the lower end of the bump stop. some movement and flexibility has to be designed in. So when the damper body pushes up at full travel towards the bump stop, the shroud can move with it for the last few cm of travel. It shouldn't create a knocking noise though, unless it's been mis-aligned or distorted through damage. And then not a kind of noise you would hear from inside the car. Anything is possible though?

More will be revealed on how these components fit together when I get round to writing up my threatened photo description of how to replace the bump stops. ‚

It was the front n/s anti roll bar bush that has the knock, but it was not a MOt fail.
The part on the rear shocker that is "loose" is the lower part of the cover, in photo (the smooth part, not the knobbly part)



Edited by: Dutchman
 

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2015 Elegance Greenline II
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Dutchman said:
The part on the rear shocker that is "loose" is the lower part of the cover, in photo (the smooth part, not the knobbly part)

That part is only mounted on the knobbly rubber shock stop.
They all do that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Urrell said:
Dutchman said:
The part on the rear shocker that is "loose" is the lower part of the cover, in photo (the smooth part, not the knobbly part)

That part is only mounted on the knobbly rubber shock stop.
They all do that.

Yes, but i bet that its a rattler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Noise now completely sorted.
I bought "sway bar link to strut" (not sure if that is the correct description) and fitted it myself.

Simple job to do, but was caught out by a simple thing.
Jacked up and removed wheel and then sightly un-done both nuts, then removed top nut first and then tried to undo bottom one, was turning for a while
and then realised it was spinning, so sprayed with wd40 and held the other side with pipe grips and proceeded to remove nut.
Fit new one in pace and start to tighten up and only got down to the nylon on the lock nuts and it starts turning again,
had a little look and think maybe the car needs lowering to hold in place to tighten nuts,
no can't be that so of i start to go to next door neighbour (who done mot for me at his garage) with old one in my hand
then i notice in the end of the threaded shaft on both ends a "torque cut out".
Inserted torque spanner to hold and tighten both nuts, job done and noise now gone.

I have changed engines, clutches, gearboxes, brakes and pretty much everything but never one of these,
so easy to get caught out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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I have what sounds like the same knock front passenger side had bushes and anti roll changed sorted noise returned assumed it was the rear so did the same bushes and anti roll bars but noise still there but it's definitely coming from the thinking about replacing the anti roll bar again or could it possibly be something else.
 

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If you find it's all turning and you can't get a spanner on it, if you have got the bottom nut off which is the easier I normally push on the drop link and you can get the the ball joint to pop off, makes it a lot easier and a last resort you can get stilsons on it to hold the ball joint.
 
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