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Missing PR stickers

5K views 29 replies 9 participants last post by  Flintstone 
#1 ·
I have a 2013 L & K diesel Yeti , acquired about 18 months ago, and am unable to find a PR sticker in any of the normal locations, the service book(didn't get one with the car) or the boot under the spare wheel. Should the boot one be obvious once the spare wheel is out or is it under one of the polystyrene boxes which are bolted to the floor? If I fail to locate one, can I get a replacement from Skoda, quoting the VIN number, in which case who do I approach to get one as my local dealer seems unable to help?

Chris
 
#2 · (Edited)
Not 100% sure what you mean by "PR sticker" Chris? (To me, "PR" means "Public Relations"? :)). If though, as I suspect, that is the same as the list of build option and ID codes, paint codes, etc., the sticker will be under the rearmost part of the polystyrene box to the left of the spare wheel (as you look into the boot, same as the car's left). The boxes are not actually bolted to the floor as such (or shouldn't be?). Although if yours has been undisturbed since fitted, it may still be attached to the upstand section of the false floor - the part that sits vertically just behind the base of the rear seats. Held by a couple of large plastic push-pins, about 2-3cm diameter. One on each side. I can't remember precisely which side they push/remove from, but think it's the face towards the rear seats.

(I removed the push pins from mine years ago, to make the boxes easier to lift in and out vertically. Makes the false floor ever so slightly subject to some marginal fore-aft movement, but for me that's a much lesser inconvenience compared to being able to lift out the boxes more readily).
 
#3 ·
I think I found another such sticker around the B pillar
 
#4 ·
Only 3 "stickers" from your description I can think of.
1 On the boot floor to the left of the spare wheel giving Vin, build codes for accessories and paint codes etc.
2 At the bottom of the drivers B pillar giving weights and engine type.
3 In the filler cap giving fuel type and tyre pressures.
PS: What's a PR sticker?
 
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#7 ·
Ah Ha! Was just in the process of copying that from "Spare Wheel Retention Device" thread where I think it had been mis-posted?

At least that clears up the mystery that several of us had - about what "PR codes" refer to. What we know as the "Vehicle Data Label". (y)
 
#15 · (Edited)
Here's that disc size list I mentioned in #13
Yeti Brake Disc Sizes and caliper type denomination Production Years 2009 to 2012+
VariantTSi 1.2TDi 2.0 CRTSi 1.4TDi 2.0 CRTDi 2.0 CRTDi 2.0 CRTSi 1.8TDi 2.0 SCRTDi 2.0 SCR
2WD/4WD2WD2WD2WD4x44x44x44x42WD4x4
Power output (ps)105/110110122 - 125110140170160 / 152110150
Engine designation / CBZBCFHACAXACFHACFHCCFJACDAA / CDABDFSB
Engine familyEA111EA189EA111EA189EA189EA189EA888EA288EA288
Years2009 - 20152009 - 20152010 -2009 - 20152009 - 20152009 - 20152009 - 2012?mid-2015 onmid-2015 on
Front disc type:ventedventedventedventedventedventedventedventedvented
diameter:280280280280288312288280288
thickness (new)222222222525252225
thickness (min.)191919192222221922
PR code:1ZF1ZF1ZE1ZE1ZA1ZE1ZE1ZF
Front caliper
ManufacturerBoschBoschBoschBoschBoschBoschBoschAte 582VL
Caliper type15” FS-III15” FS-III15” FS-III15” FS-III15” FN316” FN315” FN3(VAG VCF251)
Rear disc type:solidsolidsolidsolidsolidsolidsolidsolidsolid
diameter:253253272272272272272260272
thickness (new)101010101010101010
thickness (min.)888888888
PR code:1KD1KD1KS1KS1KS1KS1KS1KS
Rear caliper
ManufacturerTRWTRWBoschBoschBoschBoschBoschGeomet
Caliper type15” C38 15” C38 15” BIRIII15” BIRIII15” BIRIII15” BIRIII15” BIRIIIsimilar to Bosch
Disc information adapted and expanded from a pre-2014 original provided by JonA from “the dark side” at Briskoda
Should help with figuring which pads you need when looking at "Fitment Details" on the Car Parts web sites.
 

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#29 ·
Here's that disc size list I mentioned in #13
Regarding your very handy table in post #15, I'm currently servicing my Yeti, I have an update for you on the last column for the TDi 2.0 4x4 150 DFSB:

The front brake discs are 288mm diameter, new thickness 25mm and min thickness 22mm.

The thickness dimensions 25/22 also apply to the 312 diameter disc
 
#16 ·
Thanks again, Flintstone and Urrell. From the 7zap site the only PR code quoted that matches anything on my sticker is PR- 1KS which is for Bosch rear brakes. The disc size chart sent by Flintstone also shows Bosch as the manufacturer of the both front and rear calipers, but the 7zap site does not show a Bosch front caliper, only the rear with the matching PR code. On the GSF site the PR codes for front and rear are 1ZE and 1KS respectively, again with only one matching PR code of 1KS.
Should I not be too bothered that there seems to be something odd here. Either my PR sticker is not complete or I should ignore it anyway and get whatever GSF or whoever say is the correct item. I attach a copy of my PR sticker for someone to come back to me and explain that I have totally mis understood it!
 

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#17 ·
I can understand the desire to use the PR codes to identify the correct OE parts to purchase as replacements. I can’t help thinking though it’s a bit of red herring or possibly wild goose chase? The OE fitment codes and ETKA parts diagram (as found at 7zap) will tell you who supplied the hydraulic system and callipers as fitted to any particular vehicle as it rolled down the assembly line. They won’t necessarily tell you though which supplier manufactured the discs and pads fitted to the same vehicle. As that would be more determined by who’s container load had turned up “just in time” to be directed to the assembly line at the moment your car was being shunted down the line.

What’s more, on a 2013 built car, it is highly likely the discs and pads would have been replaced before now anyway. So the focus on who was the OE supplier for those parts is irrelevant anyway.

We’ve also had several instances reported in here from time to time, of owners who have upgraded their car’s disc sizes to a those fitted to a higher powered model. E.G. a 140 bhp diesel upgraded to the disc and pad sizes of a 170 bhp variant. Memory says there’s even a description in the “How To” section, for how to go about doing just that.

Hence there really is no substitute for popping a couple of wheels off, before placing a parts order. One front, one rear. To check and measure exactly what disc diameters are fitted. Preferably also slip a pad out to measure the shape and dimensions of those. So you know you’ll be ordering the compatible sized and pattern parts.

Personally I wouldn’t even contemplate going anywhere near either Halfords or a Skoda franchised dealer for discs and pads. When significantly better quality equivalents (e.g. Brembo) are available at equal, or lower cost from folks like GSF, Euro Car Parts, Car Parts 4 Less ( same company as ECP), or Opie Oils.
 
#18 ·
Thanks. I have my Brembo discs and pads ready to be fitted now, courtesy of GSF. One question, do the two guide bolts need to be lubricated as I assume the non piston side of the caliper slides on these as the brakes are applied, but no one seems to mention this?
 
#20 · (Edited)
As Urrell said. 🙂

The calipers front and rear are described as “floating”. In that the whole caliper slides on the guide pins. So that the pressure is equalised (in theory) between the piston side and opposite side. Although the design of the front calipers is very different, compared to rear. So that the front slider pins are (partially) removed to provide for the caliper and pads to be lifted from the disc together. Makes it relatively easy to remove the pins from their rubber guides, in order to re-lube them if necessary. If the rubber guides are worn they can be replaced easily. Kits are available.

Use a grease that does not degrade rubber. Such as Mintex “Ceratec”.

At the rear, the slider/guide pins are separately enclosed in a rubber bellows. With a pair of thread locked bolts that hold the caliper in place on the slider guide pins. The pins themselves are therefore less susceptible to drying out. Therefore less likely to need re-lube unless the bellows are nicked or broken.

The pads themselves, both front and rear, slide side to side on a combination of caliper and holding bracket. Depending on model and caliper design, the guide brackets may or may not have stainless sliders clipped onto the carrier brackets. Or the pad “ears” simply butt against the “naked” carrier surface.

Either way, when replacing or checking pads for wear, it is a Good Idea to sparingly apply a little lube to the pad ear surfaces that are in contact with the fixed carriers or calipers. To stop the pads seizing onto the carriers.

The rear pads are much more prone to seizing onto the carriers, due to corrosion. Mainly because the rear brakes provide less than 20% of the total braking effort. So don’t get exercised so much to stop them seizing.
 
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#22 · (Edited)
Depends on the location.

For locations involving ferrous metal to similar ferrous metal at low to moderate temperatures, then coppaslip/copperslip is fine as its ever been. Bolts or fastenings that you don’t want to corrode solid, perfect. I was using it on the undertray side screws on the Octavia on Thursday, and on both Yeti’s undertray screws the weekend before that.

For locations involving dissimilar metals in contact, such as pads to an aluminium alloy caliper, or an alloy wheel onto a steel hub, the received wisdom is the copper particles can act as an electrolytic conductor and actually promote corrosion and seizing. More modern anti-seize compounds, designed for high temperature applications like brake pads, such as Ceratec, are engineered to avoid that problem.

Here’s what Mintex have to say: Copper slip vs Ceratec: facts for the modern mechanic

For applications with rubber contact, such as the front Caliper slider pins, many pundits say copper slip gets affected by the heat and actually clags up the rubber, actually promoting sticking of the sliders. Traditionalists say red rubber grease is better for those for those places. Others say silicone grease. I’m not so sure about some silicone greases in a high temperature location such as brake callipers. So I either use no lube on those (the condition I believe the fronts left the factory?). Or if I’m feeling cautious a tiny smear of Ceratec on the slider pins too. Because that’s what I have to hand in the lubricants box (Along with with regular grease, coppaslip tube, battery terminal grease, rubber fit, GT85, WD40, muc-off bike chain lube, 3-in-1, silicone for the window runners, etc. Horses for courses, etc.).

As said earlier, the rear slider pins are a different ball game. Being sealed. I check those when the pads are out, for free movement. Then operate the principle of “If it ain’t broke - don’t fix it!”
 
#24 · (Edited)
Thanks, got some Ceratec on order. One more question, once I have jacked the car up, to change the front brakes, where is the best place for axle stands to go?
Close as possible to the jack pad, allowing for the width of the jack and axle stand. Just a bit further along the sill’s downward pointing seam, towards the B-pillar at either end. The sills, and the seam, are the strongest parts of the body frame, and are designed with this in mind. (Not true of all cars, but true for the Yeti). There are some strong, subframe mounting points slightly more inboard, at the front, but nothing else suitable anywhere near the back. Having the stands more outboard helps with stability too.

DO NOT be tempted to place a stand anywhere near or under any of the rear suspension, particularly the main cross beam. (Risk of bending). Or diff itself, (not designed to take the weight, risk of damage). The rear spring cups, directly under the springs, are just about OK at a pinch. The angle of those means it is difficult to get a stand under safely when on full droop though. Even then, the sill is a far safer location. I normally try to place the dismounted wheel under the spring pans anyway, as a third line of defence, should the trolley jack, or axle stand fail. (Also makes a perfect place to stand the collection jar when bleeding brake fluid from the caliper during a pad swap or fluid replacement.)

What sort of jack are you using? Trolley jack or the car’s emergency jack? The car’s emergency jack has a lift pad specially shaped with a slot to hold firm on the sill seam. If using a trolley jack with a cup shaped lift pad, then a used ice hockey puck with a slot cut into it, across its diameter and around half its depth, makes an excellent method of engaging with the sill seam. Also works with jacks that have a flat platform lift pad. Depending on the shape of the the tops on your axle stands, a similar pad may or may not be highly useful? Search eBay for “VW rubber jack pad”. You’ll find plenty.

Since The Hood first found them advertised a few years ago, I’ve used one of these:
A really excellent little adapter for jacks or stands with a flat lift pad. Not least because the built-in magnets hold the adaptor in place on the sill, while you get the jack or stand perfectly placed beneath it. (The magnetic hold onto the sill is good enough in fact, that when the Octavia’s owner and I were replacing it’s front springs, in 2021. When we had finished, we let the car back down onto its wheels, then took it for a five mile test drive, to check all was OK. Later, when packing all my tools away, I noticed the jack pad was not where I normally keep it, in the box with the electric rattle gun. On grounds I usually need them both at roughly the same times. Looked around for a while and eventually found the pad, still held to the car’s sill by the magnets! )
 
#26 · (Edited)
Further thoughts for Octoman. Before he asks the question :) :D(y)

When replacing old, worn pads with new, it is essential to push the caliper pistons back to their innermost position. To allow the thicker new pads to be inserted. If you do not already have a decent piston pushing or “wind back” tool, then I strongly advise getting one. I use one like this with swappable diameter heads.
Except mine is a similar, but branded “Sykes-Pickavant” tool. Bought from a Halfords branch in Chippenham some 25-30 years ago. More professional kits with multiple diameter heads for different sizes of brake pistons are also available.

The front pistons can be pushed back without a rotating action. The rears however require a clockwise rotate at the same time as the push. Because they incorporate the parking brake mechanism inside the caliper. Hence the pegs on the face of the push back tool, that engage with slots in the piston, to rotate it at the same time as pushing. Only this type of tool can achieve that. The alternative “spreader” type simply won’t work. Nor will the old “home mechanic” bodge of squeezing the piston back with a pair of plumber’s or water pump pliers, from years ago.

When pushing or winding back the pistons, I also find it essential to crack open the adjacent brake fluid bleed nipple and push the fluid out, into a retaining jar as you would use for bleeding the hydraulic lines. This has several advantages:
1) Makes the push or wind back much easier due to less resistance.
2) On modern cars with ABS brakes, avoids pushing heat degraded or contaminated fluid back up into the ABS distribution valve block. Where it can harm or degrade the proper operation of the tiny, sensitive valves and pistons in there.
3) Avoids the risk of pushing fluid through the brake master cylinder in the “wrong” direction. Where that action has been known to flip the master cyl piston seals the wrong way. Which is a PITA* to fix. (* “Pain In The Arse” for those not familiar with the technical language. ;):()
4) Provides the perfect excuse to combine the pad swap with a 2-3 year brake fluid flush and renew. Which in my case, tends to fall due around the same time anyway. So two jobs in one hit, while you have the wheels off, etc. Also means you need less new fluid to completely flush the hydraulics, as the pistons are at their minimum point of travel inside the callipers.

Happy pad swapping. (y)
 
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