Oil filter change/location
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42 Posts
You don't have to remove it. It's attached to a bracket secured by a torx bolt. Remove the bolt and slide the pipe out of your way. It looked a bit daunting at first, but turned out to be very simple.
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copperhead answer is decent much and the way he have answered it shows his knowledge.Well basically you gotta be good at these things and that surely feels good mate.I personally need a help of some professional when its about dealing with the technicalities of the vehicle when you can do it yourself that is a big help.
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14,839 Posts
Although my Yeti is still under warranty I change the oil at 9000 miles using a Pela extractor, there is no mess and no need to get underneath the car. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-New-Pela-oil-extractor-6000-6L-oil-an-fluid-pump-/261541784333?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item3ce51aeb0d
The tube fits down the dip stick tube and removes practical every drop of oil,and it only takes around twenty minutes. There is no evidence that anything has been done, no mess at alland I am happy that the oil will not be left in for the full 18000 miles. When the warranty expires and I start my own servicing I will still carry out an interim oil change using the Pela.
The tube fits down the dip stick tube and removes practical every drop of oil,and it only takes around twenty minutes. There is no evidence that anything has been done, no mess at alland I am happy that the oil will not be left in for the full 18000 miles. When the warranty expires and I start my own servicing I will still carry out an interim oil change using the Pela.
Hi ,
Has anyone changed the oil filter on a 2.0tdi 170 CFJA engine ?
Managed to unscrew the oil filter cap (using a 32mm hex socket) from the housing but there is some rigid pipework above the filter housing that is attached to the engine that is stopping the oil filter from coming far enough from the housing to be able to remove it fully to change the filter.
It would seem that the rigid pipework has to be removed first ( crazy design for a regular service item )
What have others done ? Is there a straightforward solution ?
Thanks
Edited by: dfps
Has anyone changed the oil filter on a 2.0tdi 170 CFJA engine ?
Managed to unscrew the oil filter cap (using a 32mm hex socket) from the housing but there is some rigid pipework above the filter housing that is attached to the engine that is stopping the oil filter from coming far enough from the housing to be able to remove it fully to change the filter.
It would seem that the rigid pipework has to be removed first ( crazy design for a regular service item )
What have others done ? Is there a straightforward solution ?
Thanks
Edited by: dfps
Hi Kenny,
Thanks for the reply.
I don't think it applies to this engine though ( 170 CFJA).
There is a rigid pipe attached to the engine at both ends and it is not attached to a bracket.
I would post a photo but not sure how to do that.
Is there anyone with the same engine who has changed their own filter ?
Thanks
Thanks for the reply.
I don't think it applies to this engine though ( 170 CFJA).
There is a rigid pipe attached to the engine at both ends and it is not attached to a bracket.
I would post a photo but not sure how to do that.
Is there anyone with the same engine who has changed their own filter ?
Thanks
The pipe is held at both ends with torx bolts and some sort of pipe clamp ( nearest end ).
Under normal circumstances I would just remove this pipe but not sure if both ends have gaskets that need to be replaced when refitting ?
Dont want to be left in a situation with the car off the road because I wouldn't have gaskets.( if needed).
Hence my question to the forum for someone who has done this job themselves on the same engine type with the same set up.
Thanks
Under normal circumstances I would just remove this pipe but not sure if both ends have gaskets that need to be replaced when refitting ?
Dont want to be left in a situation with the car off the road because I wouldn't have gaskets.( if needed).
Hence my question to the forum for someone who has done this job themselves on the same engine type with the same set up.
Thanks
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47 Posts
Thread revival ........I'd like to change the oil and filter on our late 2014 2.0 diesel . Can anyone confirm if it has the pipe secured by the removable bracket or the later version with the pipe clamped at both ends .
What are these pipes used for ?
Thanks
What are these pipes used for ?
Thanks
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6,027 Posts
Hi steely Dan.
The pipe in question, about 1" diameter, stainless, is part of the plumbing that feeds recirculated exhaust gasses from the EGR valve at the back of the engine, round to the throttle control body on the front. Where those gasses feed into the inlet.
On my car (see signature line) the oil filter upper casing, the part you unscrew and withdraw with the filter body attached, does come off OK without the need to remove the EGR pipe. The filter body does need to be angled and wiggled slightly to get it past the pipe. But the pipe stays in situ. That does mean though that you need to lay down plenty of absorbent rags or cloths, prior to actually withdrawing the filter, to catch the dribbles as you wiggle the filter up past this pipe.
Like The Hood and others, I do oil and filter changes every 9000 miles max. So I've done the filter extract and replace at least a dozen times now on the Yeti. Plenty more anticipated as I'm currently expecting to keep the Yeti well past the 200,000 mark. Still nowhere near as awkward to do as a Ren-oh Scenic though! But by contrast, the oil filter at least on my BMW is a doddle to extract. I wish the air filter was as accessible as the Yeti's though.
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Edited by: Flintstone
The pipe in question, about 1" diameter, stainless, is part of the plumbing that feeds recirculated exhaust gasses from the EGR valve at the back of the engine, round to the throttle control body on the front. Where those gasses feed into the inlet.
On my car (see signature line) the oil filter upper casing, the part you unscrew and withdraw with the filter body attached, does come off OK without the need to remove the EGR pipe. The filter body does need to be angled and wiggled slightly to get it past the pipe. But the pipe stays in situ. That does mean though that you need to lay down plenty of absorbent rags or cloths, prior to actually withdrawing the filter, to catch the dribbles as you wiggle the filter up past this pipe.
Like The Hood and others, I do oil and filter changes every 9000 miles max. So I've done the filter extract and replace at least a dozen times now on the Yeti. Plenty more anticipated as I'm currently expecting to keep the Yeti well past the 200,000 mark. Still nowhere near as awkward to do as a Ren-oh Scenic though! But by contrast, the oil filter at least on my BMW is a doddle to extract. I wish the air filter was as accessible as the Yeti's though.
Sorry about this, it's been a while since I used Photobucket and they seem to have changed the procedure.
Well then, it now seems that Photobucket wants to relieve me of $399 for the privilage of third part hosting of the three clear and concise pictures I have taken concerning easy (ish) access to the Engine Oil Filter on the 2.0 TDi. Sorry but until I find another host we will have to wait. In the meantime I can see just what an awkward task filter replacement looks like to a first timer. The "metal" pipe shown in the above pic does not have to be replaced, at least it does not on my engine. Only the two small diameter black plastic ones with attached bracket and a small gizmo thing as mentioned above and these can be held to the right with a bungy. After loosening the filter housing cover (the item with the large moulded hexagon on top) it can be withdrawn upwards and by angling to the right. It is a bit of an squeeze it does come out complete with the Filter attached. The filter is a "snap" fit over a central spindle so removal is just a case of twist and pull. There are two "o" rings to replace at the bottom end as well as a large one which fits over the threaded portion of the housing cover and into a groove. The new filter is a good push fit onto the Spindle and should be felt to click into place. (End faintly marked "TOP" uppermost). Oil the upper "o" ring and carefully locate the assembly down and into the housing. It will need to be tilted to allow initial entry then aligned straight to allow thread engagement to begin. The seal is a tight fit and does require more effort than one would imagine to screw down to the required torque of 25 Nm (32mm socket required) The first time I did mine I thought it was a crap piece of design and having done four changes I still think the same even if I find it easier now.
Edited by: Mike Tee
Well then, it now seems that Photobucket wants to relieve me of $399 for the privilage of third part hosting of the three clear and concise pictures I have taken concerning easy (ish) access to the Engine Oil Filter on the 2.0 TDi. Sorry but until I find another host we will have to wait. In the meantime I can see just what an awkward task filter replacement looks like to a first timer. The "metal" pipe shown in the above pic does not have to be replaced, at least it does not on my engine. Only the two small diameter black plastic ones with attached bracket and a small gizmo thing as mentioned above and these can be held to the right with a bungy. After loosening the filter housing cover (the item with the large moulded hexagon on top) it can be withdrawn upwards and by angling to the right. It is a bit of an squeeze it does come out complete with the Filter attached. The filter is a "snap" fit over a central spindle so removal is just a case of twist and pull. There are two "o" rings to replace at the bottom end as well as a large one which fits over the threaded portion of the housing cover and into a groove. The new filter is a good push fit onto the Spindle and should be felt to click into place. (End faintly marked "TOP" uppermost). Oil the upper "o" ring and carefully locate the assembly down and into the housing. It will need to be tilted to allow initial entry then aligned straight to allow thread engagement to begin. The seal is a tight fit and does require more effort than one would imagine to screw down to the required torque of 25 Nm (32mm socket required) The first time I did mine I thought it was a crap piece of design and having done four changes I still think the same even if I find it easier now.
Edited by: Mike Tee
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