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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, we are fairly new to our Skoda yeti 2015 2.0 diesel auto which for the year we have owned it has been v good except for worsening hot starting it will often spins over vigorously enough but not fire up ! This can be a right pain at lights and things , I keep the stop/start turned off now which solves that aspect of the issue but that’s no help when you stop at the shops or filling station. If after a failed start I turn completely off again and wait a few seconds it will then start ok, also when it fails to start it often carries on spinning over even when key is released for a few seconds, is this aspect normal ?
 

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when it fails to start it often carries on spinning over even when key is released for a few seconds, is this aspect normal ?
What model is your Yeti?
My 2015 Yeti will start with just a quick turn of the key and will continue to crank until it starts but mine starts very soon.
I suspect if not started it will keep turning over for a set time.
Do you have any faults displayed on the Maxidot?
If not you will need a fault code reader to see what faults are stored in the car.
 

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Never had any kind of starting problem with our 110ps CR (CFHA engine code). Hot or cold.
During 7 years of ownership and 140,000 miles. (220k total).
Nor the described symptom of starter continuing to run after key released. Never had that on any car in fact.
Therefore somewhat stumped what may be going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What model is your Yeti?
My 2015 Yeti will start with just a quick turn of the key and will continue to crank until it starts but mine starts very soon.
I suspect if not started it will keep turning over for a set time.
Do you have any faults displayed on the Maxidot?
If not you will need a fault code reader to see what faults are stored in the car.
HI it’s the 150hp 2.0l 6 speed auto model, the only display I get is when I forget to turn off the stop/start and it won’t restart it says please start manually,
 

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HI it’s the 150hp 2.0l 6 speed auto model, the only display I get is when I forget to turn off the stop/start and it won’t restart it says please start manually,
Mine is the same model and starts as expected. It goes through a sequence when you turn the key and in cold weather that takes a little longer. You may have noticed that if you turn the key to the start position, the starter motor does not spin immediately and there is a short delay before the starter motor spins. That's normal. In fact if you turn the key to the start position and immediately let the key return, the starting sequence continues. If you are quick to let the key return, the starter motor will operate after you have let go of the key. You do not have direct control of the starter motor on/off via the key.

The 'please start manually' is a big clue I think.
The message means that one or more of the conditions needed for start/stop to work is not being met.
That could be door open, bonnet open, seat belt not done up, not going fast enough since last stop, battery voltage low, electrical consumption too high etc.

How is that connected to the hot start, long cranking issue? Not sure. Maybe fuel supply related?

First job is to check for any recorded fault codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mine is the same model and starts as expected. It goes through a sequence when you turn the key and in cold weather that takes a little longer. You may have noticed that if you turn the key to the start position, the starter motor does not spin immediately and there is a short delay before the starter motor spins. That's normal. In fact if you turn the key to the start position and immediately let the key return, the starting sequence continues. If you are quick to let the key return, the starter motor will operate after you have let go of the key. You do not have direct control of the starter motor on/off via the key.

The 'please start manually' is a big clue I think.
The message means that one or more of the conditions needed for start/stop to work is not being met.
That could be door open, bonnet open, seat belt not done up, not going fast enough since last stop, battery voltage low, electrical consumption too high etc.

How is that connected to the hot start, long cranking issue? Not sure. Maybe fuel supply related?

First job is to check for any recorded fault codes.
Hi as the extended warranty runs out tomorrow Skoda uk suggested taking it straight to main stealer to get it it checked, so the better half did this afternoon, they said it could be battery only 250 quid !!!! But not under warranty and they would have to keep the car and plug it in tomorrow which also may not be covered under warranty! You can get agm 4 yr guarantee start/stop batteries on eBay for about a tun but how do you code it in or can you just change it keeping slave currant connected during swap over??
 

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The slave battery will just keep the temporary data like trip data etc, if not used you will get a few lights up on the dash that will disappear after a couple of hundred yards. The radio code is stored in the ECU so there is no problem with that.

As I understand it if you replace the battery with "exactly" the same it should not need recoding.
 

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That was only half the question, and sometimes how a question is answered is more important than the answer itself.
There is no waiting for the glow plug light to go out as the starter will not engage until it does.
 

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Hi as the extended warranty runs out tomorrow Skoda uk suggested taking it straight to main stealer to get it it checked, so the better half did this afternoon, they said it could be battery only 250 quid !!!! But not under warranty and they would have to keep the car and plug it in tomorrow which also may not be covered under warranty! You can get agm 4 yr guarantee start/stop batteries on eBay for about a tun but how do you code it in or can you just change it keeping slave currant connected during swap over??
Just in time for the dealer check under warranty but as you found out lots of items aren't covered. If the check using their plug in VAS systems reveals a fault that is not covered by the warranty they will charge you for that check.
As Urrell says, if your new battery has the same make, capacity etc as the old one, no coding is required.
This video shows the coding process using VCDS.
Other phone apps may be able to do this too.
Also note that the battery negative terminal will have a small black box attached which is the battery condition monitor. If you connect a battery charger to the car the charger negative clip must NOT be connected directly to the battery negative terminal. Use the post on the LH inner wing.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks guys for you words of wisdom, as suspected the only fault found with the car is an ageing battery! So just under a wunner down and a squeaky clean car with an otherwise clean bill of health I can now look at the battery tomorrow and hopefully source one the same !
 
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