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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the habit of leaving the Yeti in gear when parked in our yard which is flat and avoid leaving it with the handbrake on.

Yesterday, I was about to go out in the yeti and felt that the brakes were binding, tried it on the slight ramp into the garage and yes the brakes were stopping the car. When I tried the handbrake there was a positive resistance preventing me from pulling it up.

Am I correct in suspecting it is a stuck caliper causing this problem?
 

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Handbrake resistance can also be caused by the cover blind creasing Had an MoT failure due to that so now regularly apply silicone spray to the cover.
 
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If the gaiter inside the car seems ok, try checking the handbrake mechanism on each rear brake caliper while an assistant operates the handbrake lever.
Apologies if you already know what to look for, but I happen to have a couple of photos of the handbrake mechanism on the left hand side of our 140 4x4...
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You'll probably need to crawl under the car with a torch to make any observations.

Check the quadrant moves a decent distance when your assistant yanks on the lever inside the car (the rubber gaiter on the cable should compress).
If one or both of them don't move much, try spraying WD40 on the pivot point of the quadrant.
If it/they still don't budge, either your handbrake cable(s) are seized, or there's a problem inside your caliper(s).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
SnowGood/Cubes thanks for the info.
 

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Yeti S+ 2010 2.0TDi CR110 2WD Manual
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Other possible causes (in no particular order):
  • parking brake cable near seizing?
  • parking brake lever near seizing?
  • actuator quadrant (as shown in the photos provided by Cubes above) seizing?
  • caliper piston seized?
  • pads corroded onto the caliper or carrier brackets.

How evenly worn, or not are the pads and discs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Other possible causes (in no particular order):
  • parking brake cable near seizing?
  • parking brake lever near seizing?
  • actuator quadrant (as shown in the photos provided by Cubes above) seizing?
  • caliper piston seized?
  • pads corroded onto the caliper or carrier brackets.

How evenly worn, or not are the pads and discs?
The pads and discs are about 2 years old so still pretty unworn. I have arranged to get the car up on my mate's four point lift in his workshop so we can check things out. I will report back when resolved.
 

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Hi Slaphead, I had a similar issue with my rear brakes, but more related to the pads. Though only 2yrs old the cleaning solutions used at my local car wash drive thro had washed all the copper slip grease away & the pads where near enough rusted to the caliper this caused a very annoying squeal/squeak when driving. Everything was stripped cleaned, pistons wound back, re-grease & reassemble, all good. Cheers magic
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well we had the wheels off the Yeti yesterday. You may have seen my post a year or two ago where I pictured the state of my front Brembo pads after purchasing a full set in June 2018 and the state of the front pads in September 2019.

I should have expected this, here is a picture of a rear pad which had all but jammed solid. Absolutely shocking, I will never buy Brembo products again.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There are a lot of fake Brembo products on sale.
I bought them from Euro Car Parts, surely not? Might explain it though.
 

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I know they will be dearer but with a safety item such as brake pads you could do a lot worse than buy them from a Skoda dealer. More expensive, yes but they will fit and be appropriate for the car. Years ago, I would buy replacement exhausts from a motor factor, they would need to be fettled to fit and would only last as long as the warranty, then I started buying oem from a dealer, up to twice as much to buy, but fitted first time and lasted around three times as long. If you fit pads from a dealer, you are still saving the labour costs.
 
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