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Discussion Starter #1
hi,

recently bought a mk1 yeti, the rear drivers side door doesn't seem to have any working electric's, so no locking or electric window functionality

just wondering is anyone know the loom part number? and rough cost


thanks

Steve
 

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Look on this link but there are different suffixes so not sure which you would need. Cost is c£100.

Have you checked the front door loom by pulling back the rubber grommet and checking for broken wires? This is a known issue with early model yetis.
 

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Oh and Welcome to the forum :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
so the fault could be drivers loom, affecting the rear loom?

thanks for the reply and the welcome to the forum :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
so the fault could be drivers loom, affecting the rear loom?

thanks for the reply and the welcome to the forum :)
Well I had a look behind the drivers door loom, think I found the issue

infact I know, as I’ve Joined the top purple one and all electrics are working now on the rear door
 

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Well done and looks like you have answered your own question. Yes the drivers door loom could affect the rear door electrics. New loom is about £125 for the drivers side, bit cheaper for the passenger door and has a modified design so less susceptible to the breakage of the wiring.
 
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Having the new loom means you will be able to see what type of lock each connector uses. You could also label the connections prior to taking the old one off.
 

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Yup! A problem in the front door affects the rear door too. Especially the driver’s door, as that has the controls for all four door windows.

That photo confirms that is the earlier loom. Used up to somewhere around mid-2013.
The later loom design has a much longer u-shaped loop where the cabling and rubber bellows pass between the door frame and the A-pillar. That greatly reduces the angle that the stretch of cabling needs to twist every time the door is opened or closed. Make sure therefore, that the new loom is of the later design, not a rogue old stock of the original loom (unlikely but worth checking). Sorry, I don’t have part numbers to hand.

While investigating, I’d recommend checking the front passenger door loom too. Those are often not far behind in encountering exactly the same problem.
 

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The part number for the drivers door loom for my 2012 Elegance was K5L0971120GA and in 2016 it cost £100.70 + vat

I don't know how many different looms there are although I would have thought it would make sense to have just one to ease stock requirements as stock equals unavailable cash
 

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If you're handy at cable jointing and don't want to strip the door, then I guess something like this could be an option?

1614141456306.png

www.ebay.co.uk


Spag
 

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If you're handy at cable jointing and don't want to strip the door, then I guess something like this could be an option?
Spag
That’s quite similar to the kit I used successfully 3 months ago, to repair the loom into the rear hatch of my daughter’s FIAT 500. In that case though, there is no plug and socket. The cable loom just threads through large rubber grommets into the C-pillar and hatch/door. New grommets and trunking were included, along with heat-shrink insulation fittings at either end. Don’t see those in the pics for the Skoda kit, so may need to add some heat-shrink insulation tubing for the ends that splice into the door loom?

Dunno about the Skoda kits, but what I did find in the Fiat’s kit was that the quality and flexibility of the replacement cable lengths were far higher that the OEM fitting. So provided I’ve made all 28 butt connections OK then the fix should be longer lasting than the original? From the pics, the cables in the kit for a Skoda look similar.

This option not favoured by garages because the fitting time required would surpass the cost of a complete new door loom that requires only 30 minutes or so fitting time (for the experienced fitter). Different ball-game for a competent DIYer.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
New drivers door loom fitted, all sorted, thanks all
125+vat

to scared to peal back the passenger side lol
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just over an hour , quite straight forward ,

Unplug large connected in the door shut
Prise handle off, 2 small openings underneath
Remove two large bolts
Remove two small bottom of door card
Remove electric window panel prise out with panel or flat screen driver , then unplug electrics
then remove small screw behind handle
Then need to pop the door card off
Then once all the sides and bottoms are off , gently knock up to remove from top

then holding the door card I clip thelight at the bottom, the led at the top
Remove cable for the door opener

then you can just remove all the cables
Using screwdriver prise out the large gromit from inside door shut
Then feed the loom through the small hole out of the car

out the loom back up there is 1 large plug which has to come though the small hole at a certain angle, other than that it’s just the reverse of the above
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I may repair my old loom as I have the heat shrink and soldering iron , so may cut and extend the cables
 

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If you repair the old unit that may ensure that the passenger side never goes. I would imagine that the drivers loom would fit the passenger door which has less electrics. Fame will be yours after all, your write up is on my Yetipedia to do list.
 
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