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Replacing a door (2)

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141 views 5 replies 3 participants last post by  Wakou  
#1 · (Edited)
Some of you may have seen the other thread. This is an update, but contains some possibly useful info for folks passing through..
@RickT of this very parish kindly took the time to give some advice in the other thread.
But! It is much easier than I could have imagined, and a lot of Googling did not reveal how easy! There is one You Tube vid, in which the hinges are unbolted, as Rick advised...
To remove the door:
1) Pull off the rubber sleeve/boot where it clips to the A pillar. The clip is at the top, the bottom is a simple hook. ATTENTION! Open the window before you do this! Not like me, (idiot) (the door with window open is much easier to carry etc..).
2) Pull down the orange clip which secures the wiring plug, and pull the harness away.
3) Undo the door-arrestor-strap. This, for no logical reason is a spline-head 10mm (not Torx!) It has some thread-locker (why?) and so might feel a bit reluctant.
4) Remove the silicon-rubber caps from the screws holding the door-pins, this reveals some very odd looking "male torx" ? screws. A socket will undo them just fine.. They should not be tight, there is no reason for them to be more than hand tight plus a snidge (TM)
5) Err..... THAT IS ALL! The door simply lifts off!
The door fully assembled, is quite heavy, so have somewhere soft to rest it/put it down.
Putting on the replacement is, as the old Haynes Manuals used to say "the same, but in reverse".
I blackmailed a passing neighbour* to eyeball the pins and help me guide the new door on; (when supporting the weight of the door, you can see the top pin but not the bottom..).
To my great pleasure and delight, it was "plug and play"; no coding or messing, locks and windows and speakers all work without any input from me. I did not even disconnect the battery!
It would take a serious person who knows what tools are needed to be "at hand" no more than 20 mins. I also stop often for a smoke and a swig of beer, but even then it was no more than an hour!
* Not actually a neighbour, but the father-in-law of a young couple who have recently moved in next-door. He had been to a funeral and in black suit and tie etc!
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#2 ·
I had been tootling-about the previous day and was passing a huge VW dealership.. (Cars on the roof, commercial vehicles this way etc!) Just on the off-chance, I decided to pop in and ask..
I eventually found the "Parts and Service dept" Where six immaculate young persons were twiddling their thumbs at desks... I apologised for being a mere Skodista.. But they could not have been nicer! I showed the chap a photo of the hinges and pins etc.. He took a copy and went to the "body-shop" and came back with a body-technician, who explained that yes, the doors lift off if you slacken those two funny-looking screws. He then casually went over to £60,000 worth of brand-new Touareg or similar and opened the door, and showed me that the actual parts were exactly the same! "If it ain't broke" etc!
So a shout-out and a thank-you to "Group 1 Volkswagen" of Chelmsford.. You never know.. If I win the lottery, I might pop back and that buy that Touareg!
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#3 ·
Tomorrow, the mirror! But I expect this to be equally painless. I don't think the scrapper/breaker had taken off the whole door-card, just prised-off enough to unplug it..
A shout-out and thank you to them as well, excellent service, excellent answers on the phone, the door was better than expected, excellent shipping by a local (to them) courier-service for the frankly, absurdly cheap £30.00.. (Lincs > Essex). The door still had working window, motors, locks etc, (complete except for the mirror). And was in my colour!
Global Auto Salvage Lincs..
Henry Lane, Bardney, Lincoln LN3 5TP
Phone: 07500 500528
 
#4 ·
Hi Wakou,
Thank you, I am very pleased to know you appreciated my advice and you've had a trouble free replacement.
I recently did a full door swap on a Ford Ecosport it was a bit more awkward to line up with body work and I had to swap the lock, loom and door handle. The breakers had also removed the door mirror and chopped the wires off. It was all do-able though.
 
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#5 ·
Not recently but pre Yeti I replaced the rear hatch on a Nissan Prairie, it was heavy but another single person possible job using a stout piece of fence post. I bought a matching Prairie off eBay and it supplied all the parts I needed until I disposed of the daily drive vehicle, it worked out much cheaper than buying parts but you need somewhere to keep the donor. The donor had the old hatch and other parts fitted and was kept washed so wasn't an eyesore, until it was again sold for spare parts
 
#6 · (Edited)
And so to recap and to finish-off. Whilst my "memory" is still fresh (was it ever?)
The mirror is held on by one bolt (T30) and a locating-pin, it comes off as simply as one might expect... It locates UNDER the rubber window-seals
But the cable supplying the motorised mirror/heater/indicator (IMHO bizarrely!) is routed right around the edge of the inner-door to the bottom and then back up to a control-unit.. (Come on VAG/Skoda! A simple plug/connector up there would not have been too much to ask!).
And so, the door-card has to come off. Grr!
It is not too hard. There are 5 actual fasteners.
Lever-off the little cover to the tweeter-speaker and window switch, to reveal the first. You will need a thin torx-driver, it is quite deeply recessed.
There are two little Torx-screws at the bottom of the door.
The other two (bigger, T30, I did not have a skinny T30 driver and used a 5mm Allen key, luckily mine were not tight!) are under the the actual handle-cover. Lever it off and unclip. On the donor, I broke the cover and on the new one, the scrapper had done the same! Both times ! There seems to be no logical way to get this off without breaking it. But! Do not panic! The part that breaks seems not to have any actual, vital function..
Then pull the card away from the bottom, and the clips pop out (1).Then lift from rear of the door, and it comes away.
Then, unclip the bowden-cable for the door-handle, the little wire-clips to the tweeter and window-winder. And if you have it, the supply to the red light at the bottom which lights when the door is open..
(My original "donor" door had this.. the "new" door did not! And short of replacing the entire door-harness.. I decided not to!).
Putting it back:
Route and clip-in the cable for the mirror (easy! A red lock, pull it out, clip-in and clip the lock)
Then, the triangular(ish) cover for the mirror. This slides on to a clip which IS directional, make sure the clip is facing the right way.

Then make sure that the two cables for the window-switch and the tweeter are poking through the hole or are at least 'hookable-out'..
I was frustrated and mystified for a while replacing the Bowden-cable... What with holding the door-card, and a torch, and making sure that the cable-plugs were still poking through the tweeter-aperture, and my glasses falling off because trying to look downwards! But after a smoke or two and a tin of Carlsberg(TM).
Attach the cable (inner). Pull back the white plastic housing-end, and locate it over the male part, the white plastic is very soft, then just flick the two prongs over the black housing. Simples! (For me an hour! For you, 30s! You can thank me later!).
Then clip back the two cables (three if you have the red "open-door" light..!) Drop the card over the window-edge, and all should clip-in nicely.
1) As with all old thermo-set plastic body clips, they can be brittle. If you are working in cold weather, warm the car first, or borrow a hair-drier, to give them a chance to NOT break!

(edited for reasons)