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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all, it has been a while since last posted.

My Yeti has covered 60k now and been trouble free. Starting a few months ago, every week of so the Yeti would fire up then die immediately. We would then have to try again but keep the Key turned for a good 2-3 seconds before firing up again. Now it's every time.

I changed the battery 12 months ago. I haven't been tinkering with it since. There are no dash lights. But I haven't scanned it yet.

I disconnected the MAF to check it wasn't that but still did the same.

2013, 2.0tdi 4x4 DSG.

Any ideas what it could be?
 

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Thanks for editing in what version Yeti you have. I was about to ask. (Even better idea perhaps to put that in your signature line for future?)

My first guess based on the described symptoms is a glow plug problem. There could be a number of other reasons, so that’s just a first guess. Hence that fault code scan you mention would be my next course of action. As a latent or intermittent fault may not cause a dash light to become permanently lit.

When first starting up the car, do you always wait with the key at position 1, for the the “glow plugs energised” light to go out, before going to position 2 to actually start cranking the motor? Or do you tend to go straight to position 2, with no pause? The latter method can work 9 times out of 10, especially in warmer weather (by that I mean anything above zero centigrade). (It’s only when you’ve worked and operated vehicles in -36C that you really understand what “cold” really means in terms of the range that vehicles can be expected to work in. (y) )

When you do get it started, does it run happily thereafter? Or are there any hesitant moments until it’s been running for a while?

For understanding, the glow plugs should normally operate for a few seconds before starting. To provide a heat source inside the cylinder to help ignition when the (cold) fuel is injected. They start heating when the key is at position 1. When the tips get close to their design temperature, the dash light extinguishes. Which is when you should start cranking.

Even after the normal engine firing has started. The glow plugs normally stay on for a number of seconds, even up to a minute or more. Till either they switch off on a timer or the engine temp gets high enough (depends on engine design parameters). In the very hottest climates, they don’t need to stay on very long at all. That enables the fuel mixture to weakened sooner, long before full engine temp is reached. So benefitting fuel economy and pollution.

I’m wondering if in your case, the plugs are perhaps not staying on for long enough? Which if true could be a timer failing, rather than the glow plugs themselves? Hence may not give rise to a fault light during running? That scan may or may not reveal more?

Again I emphasise this is just a first guess. More detailed patterns of symptoms may lead to a different diagnosis?
 

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I agree with Flintstone - probably a glow plug problem. I don't own a diesel Yeti but your symptoms mimic those of my old Berlingo when the glow plugs were at the end of their lives and producing insufficient heat. In really cold (UK) weather, I had to turn the key to position 1 and wait for the light to go out, then return the key to position 0, then turn the key to position 1 again and wait for the light to go out before the engine would start. A new set of glow plugs cured the problem.
 

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Engine starting and then stopping immediately can be an immobiliser issue, but that isn't usually accompanied by long cranking at the next try - although 2-3 seconds isn't very long.
Doing the scan would be useful.

Something cheap that might be worthwhile is to try another key and/or replace the battery in the key fob.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Firstly, I would like to say a big thank you for replying - thank you. I really appreciate it.

I can confirm that both the Mrs and I wait for the fuel to prime and the glow plug light to go out before firing, we do it twice in the cold normally just for good measure - habits of driving older diesels I guess.

After I posted this morning I went out and deliberately fired up using the other key. No problems today. Retried a dozen times. Fine. Tried the other key. Absolutely fine. Waited an hour, tried again...fine.

I put a shot of Wynn's diesel fuel cleaner through it afterwards anyway and took it for a spirited drive whilst hot. Tried again with both keys...fine.

So touch wood it's fine but isnt that strange??
 

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A lot of cars have spent a lot of time sitting around during the pandemic and that is not good for them, maybe it needs a nice long drive somewhere. I always use archoil in my fuel. I have no interest in the company other than using their products. There is a link below to a discount code. I use Archoil 6900-D max in every fill, and a bottle of 6400-D at the start of a long journey to give things a good clearout.

 

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Discussion Starter #8
A little update -ran an OBD2 SCAN on it today - Carista -and it has reported a 04114 error code under Engine category. Of course it's manufacturer specific and just takes me to a very unhelpful Google search of nothing.

I cleared it, restarted car and the code came straight back.

Any ideas?
 

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The Android app "VAG-COM Faultcodes" search for 04114 also brings:
"There were no results matching this query."

Sorry wfmonkey, not much help, but at least proves its not just you having no joy in tracking that fault code. :(
 

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The same with Ross-Tech, VCDS does not use that code either. Maybe drop Carista an email and see what happens.
I tried Ross-Tech too but nothing found and I tried dropping the first and last digits, adding a P at the start and one or two other variations - still nowt.
Is there a Carista forum or support site that might help?
 
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