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Discussion Starter #1
On a trip to the seaside yesterday, we returned to the car to find one of the tyres was flat at the bottom and a shiny screw deeply embedded in the tread at the top. Ah! this is why I bought the spare wheel kit!






So, jack up the car, remove the wheel nuts and.... "it's stuck!" The wheel had seized onto the hub and no amount of gentle banging ( I was worried that the jack would go over if I banged *too* hard ) would free it.



Skoda Assist came to the rescue in the shape of a RAC van, a trolley jack and a large hide hammer. From my initial 'phone call to having the spare wheel fitted was 35 minutes - very impressive I thought.



So, if the wheels haven't been off in a while ( since new in my case ) it's something worth thinking about - unless you carry a large hammer in the boot of course!



Regards, Lee.
 

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I've had this happen on other cars. before using the jack Islackened all the wheel bolts about 2-3 full turns eachand then rock the car sideways, or grab the wheel at the top and then push n pull it.

When it feels loose or hear it klunk klunk jack the car up and carry on as normal.


Be forceful and you willsucceed.
 

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Always get my wheels removed when new and have copper grease applied, saves a lot of time and trouble when you need to get the wheel off.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for that good advice Rick. Hopefully the occasion when I need to be forceful won't arise again i.e. no more punctures!

To cap it all, the puncture was outside the permitted area of tread so it meant a new tyre.

Yes Wakev that's just
what I did; a smear of copper grease on the hub before I refitted the wheel.

Best Wishes, Lee.
 

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i always remove ,clean off the corrosion and copperslip the wheels when i get a new or used car. two of the wheel on my yeti were a bugger to shift and thats after two years on the car.


brian
 

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Bit of advice;
Copperslip does the job but only apply it on the hub spigot if you put it on the flange faces the wheel can rotate back n fwdon the hub (Fretting). this is because the copperslip is so slippy the clamping effect is compromisedand eventually shearing off the wheel bolts. My friend who used to rally lost a wheel because of this.





BandH,

Have you got an MT500 (Armstrong CCM)?
Edited by: RickT
 

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Copperslip can also be abrasive! Not in this application, but I worked at a company that made large hydraulic rams for coal mining roof supports. They used it to help in the fitment of the collars with the rubber seals in, that the extending rod went through, if any contaminated the seals they failed prematurely....
 

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RickT said:
Bit of advice;
Copperslip does the job but only apply it on the hub spigot if you put it on the flange faces the wheel can rotate back n fwdon the hub (Fretting). this is because the copperslip is so slippy the clamping effect is compromisedand eventually shearing off the wheel bolts. My friend who used to rally lost a wheel because of this.





BandH,

Have you got an MT500 (Armstrong CCM)?
i do indeed. 1985 vintage. slightly modded with ccm 604 front end. best all round bike i have owned.
i agree regarding the use of copperslip but up to now have had no issues. (touching wood)

brian
 

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If you get yourself a spare set of wheels for winter tyres, swapping them over twice a year will solve the problem. (Almost November and mine are still on the tyre tree in the workshop!!)
 

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I haven't heard of this problem before. Is it caused by the salt in the winter grit causing corrosion, or is it a problem common to alloy wheels in general?

Edited by: plbxr
 

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Aluminium and steel react with each other by means of electrolysis. salt water can speed up this process because it is an electrolite (conductor)
 

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Very common problem. 1st time it happened to me (2003 Vectra Sri) took QuikFit 20 minutes hammering with rubber mallet to get wheel off so as per other replies - Coppaslip on when wheels off.
 

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Is it possible that some knowledgeable person could do a "how to" with a photo showing where to properly apply the Coppaslip compound? That would be appreciated, thanks.
 

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Basically when you have got a wheel offlook at the back of the wheel,Where the hole in the centre (about 2 inch diameter) just smear a bit of Copperslip round the inside of it.
There is a spigot on the hub (about 2inch diameter)that the centre hole in the back of the wheel slides on toand you smear a bit of copperslip around the outside ofthat.

Hope that makes sense but I have no picture to post.
 

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before applying the copperslip, remove some of the corrosion with some emerycloth or scotchbrite.

brian
 

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Thanks for the instructions everyone. That explains things quite well. While we have plenty of anti-seize compounds here, we don't seem to have Coppaslip brand. It seems to have good specs so I ordered a tube through UK fleabay. AUD $14 delivered is good value I think.
 

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Don't forget the wheels are painted, it's only the hub that's bare metal I believe. I've never had this problem but guess it's more to do with the paint that may not be fully cured sticking to the metal that may have some contamination on the mating face.
Old wheels may have bare ali showing from removal or damage,steel (if that's what the hub is made of) will then corrode with the ali and moisture due to electrolysis.
 

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plbxr said:
Thanks for the instructions everyone. That explains things quite well. While we have plenty of anti-seize compounds here, we don't seem to have Coppaslip brand. It seems to have good specs so I ordered a tube through UK fleabay. AUD $14 delivered is good value I think.
I've never had or heard of this problem either, but $14 is cheap insurance, so my tube of copaslip is on it's way too.
 

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Copperslip for Copperhead - just made me laugh!


Still, you'll be the one laughing if I get stuck so maybe a weekend job for me too!
 
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