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I have a vague memory from another of my posts, which I can't locate, that the soot mass for a 'full' VW group DPF is 70 g.
 

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I have a vague memory from another of my posts, which I can't locate, that the soot mass for a 'full' VW group DPF is 70 g.
Mine doesn't read out in grams, I think it reads out in litres ;)
At 0.15 at the moment.
 

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Mine doesn't read out in grams, I think it reads out in litres ;)
At 0.15 at the moment.
Likewise. The Oil Ash Residue title has “(l)” beside it. Whether that means litres, I still have not figured out.:sad:
The reading has been at 0.21 for many months. But recently moved to 0.22.
I’m also still trying to figure how full that means it is?

The soot % shows as a pale green horizontal bar, increasing from around 20% at the end of a regen, to over 85-90% when a regen is imminent. When the car had a persistent fault code recently (P0113 - bad reading from intake air temp sensor (turned out the an ECU fault, not the sensor) then the ECU would not trigger a regen. The soot mass figure indicated, reached 122% full. But quickly came down again once I got the car back and immediately took it for a 15mile each way run up the A168. A regen triggered as soon as the engine temperatures stabilised and were maintained. Completed back down to 20% within 7 miles of steady 60mph driving. With exhaust gas temperatures peaking well over 700 degrees. Compared to “rormal” running in the 250-300 zone.
 

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I have a vague memory from another of my posts, which I can't locate, that the soot mass for a 'full' VW group DPF is 70 g.

That sounds about right as mine a while back was reading 14% @ 9.7 grams.
 

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I’ll have to take another trawl through “settings” and figure out how to get mine to read Oil Ash Residue in (g).

Also to display “Field Regen status” in place of one of the other less useful items on my current displayed list. Is that one as informative as it sounds?
 

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Also bear in mind it looks almost certain that the ash value is calculated since when you clean the dpf out, you have to reset the ash value.
There is some more bits about VAGDPF in this thread: https://www.yetiownersclub.co.uk/forum/13-technical/9611-removing-dpf-cleaning.html

If it were correct, then by most peoples reports, the DPF should be full at around 150k max. Flinstone is proof that this is not the case!, I seem to remember that 0.2 on VAGDPF where shown like this is full, so yours must be bursting at the seams, mine shows grams and currently over 40% full.
 

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I’ll have to take another trawl through “settings” and figure out how to get mine to read Oil Ash Residue in (g).

Also to display “Field Regen status” in place of one of the other less useful items on my current displayed list. Is that one as informative as it sounds?
I think it switches between g an l depending on engine type.
I would like to be wrong on this and be able to display %
 

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I think it switches between g an l depending on engine type.
I would like to be wrong on this and be able to display %
You could always post a question to the developers on the review page on Google Play/ App store

.
 

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I think it switches between g an l depending on engine type.
I would like to be wrong on this and be able to display %
Bouncing this thread back into the "active" zone (pun intended!).

Oil Ash Residue (OAR) figures - interpretation thereof?
Using VAG DPF across a handful of cars now, has confirmed to me that the units and figures displayed for Oil Ash Residue do indeed swap with engine type.

My 110ps CFHA motor displays OAR in "(l)". Current value 0.23 after 235,000 miles. (With regular use of Archoil D-Max6900 for the last 3 years. Smoke emissions "0.00" for last three MOTs).

I'm increasingly convinced this can be treated as a % full. Not least by the fact this is the figure that the green bar %full display regularly gets down to when an active regen completes. I'm very willing to be educated otherwise though if incorrect?

The Octavia I look after for its owner (see full signature line) is a 1.6 CR 110 (similar to a Greenline Yeti?). That displays OAR in grams (g). A couple of other motors I've used VAG DPF on also display (g).

The 170ps Elegance I looked at yesterday as a prospective purchase has the CFJA engine code. That displays in (g) with a value of 43.2g. If Jimmy's figure from further back in this thread is still correct, of 70g = "full", that would mean its DPF is about 62% full*.

With a couple more years of experience of using VAG DPF, what have other members here found about reading and interpreting the OAR figures particularly?

* The current driver of the car in question (an independent, trusted, dealer who has been using the car as his own daily driver for a few weeks) also reports that its fuel consumption is rather higher than expected. At under 40mpg "only if I'm lucky" running about and commuting, while enjoying the performance. That would seem to be consistent with the car needing to initiate active regens more frequently? Because it has less than 40% of its DPF capacity left to play with?

Should I be walking away from this car? It also needs a bunch of other work, such as all new discs, two new tyres, new cam belt. Which either I could do if the price was right, or if he won't budge enough on price I would want fixed before taking delivery. Wait for another Yeti to come along with a better DPF capacity? Or push for a new DPF or DPF flush to be included in the price? Mmmmm. Going back for a second look this afternoon.....
 
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I'm increasingly convinced this can be treated as a % full. Not least by the fact this is the figure that the green bar %full display regularly gets down to when an active regen completes. I'm very willing to be educated otherwise though if incorrect?
Mine doesn't relate to the fullness of the DPF unless mine is still the same as when I bought it 3years ago😁
On a good hard drive it regens down to 22% if just ambling about its 25% so I can't see how it can relate .
On local journeys of 10-50 miles its about 115miles between regens on a long motorway journey it's about 230miles but then I do sit at a constant 2500rpm on the motorway 😱

I'm lucky to get 45mpg on a long run........
 

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Mine doesn't relate to the fullness of the DPF unless mine is still the same as when I bought it 3years ago😁
On a good hard drive it regens down to 22% if just ambling about its 25% so I can't see how it can relate .

I'm lucky to get 45mpg on a long run........
Thanks for the mpg comparison. That's about what I would expect from a 170 with a 6-speed box during a m-way cruise. My current Yeti (110) struggles to get near that at motorway speeds, not least because its working harder and only has a 5-speed box. (Although the final drive ratios will differ and compensate to some extent of course.)

Current Yeti's OAR reading started three years ago at 0.19 (l). 40,000 miles later is now 0.23. Consistent with the overall lifetime figure of 0.01 units of oil ash deposition per 10,000 miles. So provided you still use good, low SAPS, C3 oil, I wouldn't expect it to change much over a relatively short timescale. Depending on mileage?

The key comparison I think, is between the OAR reading, and the minimum that an active regen brings the soot loading % down to. That's the one that I'm trying to get more data on. Especially when the OAR display is in (l), whatever that means?
 

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At about 42000 miles mine is showing 22% oil ash full, very happy with that.

5787
 
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At about 42000 miles mine is showing 22% oil ash full, very happy with that.
Is that what soot regens get down to, when they complete?

That 22% figure is also totally consistent with 70g being “maximum” (y)

Decided after a second look to leave the 170 on the forecourt. Partly because it is at 62% of its OAR. Also a whole raft of other latent mechanical defects that would turn it into a money pit long term. Including service history “very patchy” at best. Mostly non-existent. As soon as I said that, the seller, who I bought our current Yeti from, 8 years ago :)oops:) and knows what I look for, immediately said: “As soon as I saw you taking a close interest in that one, I thought - that car is not for you. You’ll want a keeper. That car deserves someone who’ll just hack it about as a workhorse for a couple of winters, then ditch it.”

Plenty more fish.... Might even wait till Derek decides to part with his? Then get it chipped to 170? Cue The Hood....
 
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Is that what soot regens get down to, when they complete?
Never really noticed what they get down to after a regen, probably done one since then as it hadn't done one for 302 miles there, I must keep it plugged in and get SWMBO to watch the app when one starts..
 
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Ah, my normal plan is to buy new, coset the car until it wears out then buy another. Down here the diesel hatred is getting so bad it will soon limit where I can use it. Originally, I had no intention of changing it until it wore out, a couple of years ago I was due to drive to Meadens with a pocket full of cash to take on a car with a potential water feature. That didn't happen as they sold it, if I had not phoned just before leaving I would have found out on arrival!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So in my opinion that put them lower down the scale than Marshallls. Last year I almost bought one of the last Freelander 2's made, a friend was going to buy a new Defender (£69,000) and sell me the FL at the PX price, but he died and his relatives wanted dealer retail price so that did not happen.
I need a 4x4 but have not yet met the ideal replacement, if Meadens had kept their word, by now I might have posted how to cure a water feature, or how to remove the pano roof from a Yeti.
 
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