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Recent news on Winterkorn's trial here.
I was referring to certain individuals taking bribes to award supply contracts to certain companies. But Dieselgate is deemed much more newsworthy!

VW Purchasing have a bit of a reputation in automotive supply circles, to the point where some suppliers just decline to have anything to do with them.

Of course, suppliers are not all whiter-than-white. Cutting corners without the customer finding out is not uncommon. That is certainly one possibility for the timing chain issues.
 

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if you got one made by a new or newish die you were O.K. if it was one made later than normal in the dies "lifetime" you had a potential problem. It was across the VAG range.
Same with the pre 2007 Harley Davidson twin cam engines, the rough chains wore away the spring tensioners, that blocked the oil pump and the engines suffered, usually seizing. They changed that with better quality chains and oil pressure tensioners. I suspect lots of other manufactures suffered the same problem.
Below is a failed tensioner while the one on the other chain is hardly worn.

Wood Tool Electronic device Auto part Saw
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Back to the issue of the random (and not only on cold start) growling noise which odds on is caused by the inferior timing chain on my 2011 1.2 Yeti. I have made a definite decision to get my mechanic to replace the chain and tensioners and sprocket(s) however after a brief visit to Skoda Watford the rep was really not that helpful. He just said that I could not talk to a mechanic as they are in short supply. He also said that there were no recalls for this issue and if there is any info it would be on the mechanics error code readers. However one useful bit of data is that Skoda only use their own Skoda brand to replace the chain on a yeti 1.2 and do not resort to using any third party chains. As I gather there are various aftermarket chains available such as the ones on Ebay and then whatever you can get from car part dealers such as BGA part no 023v40710 etc. To cut to the chase is there anyone here who can tell me exactly which chain is the optimal chain, tensioner etc for the Skoda yeti 2.1 TSI 2011 to nip this issue in the bud . 60k miles. Almost full Skoda service history? your help would be immensely appreciated** I also hasten to thank everyone who has kindly contributed to this thread.
 

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It is quite likely that all the replacement chain kits are made by the same manufacturer,but a Skoda dealer wants one with the VW name on the box from their stock as they can make more profit from it.An independent garage may be willing to use a kit of your choice.
Make sure you use a garage you can trust,my brother had his 2010 Yeti taken to an RAC approved garage for this job,and quoted £700.The mechanic made a serious error resulting in him bending all the valves,which they denied and tried to say the damage was existing,although the car was taken there in running order.
Finally it became a court case after a new engine was needed,the RAC garage were forced to pay up £5,000 in total.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
It is quite likely that all the replacement chain kits are made by the same manufacturer,but a Skoda dealer wants one with the VW name on the box from their stock as they can make more profit from it.An independent garage may be willing to use a kit of your choice.
Make sure you use a garage you can trust,my brother had his 2010 Yeti taken to an RAC approved garage for this job,and quoted £700.The mechanic made a serious error resulting in him bending all the valves,which they denied and tried to say the damage was existing,although the car was taken there in running order.
Finally it became a court case after a new engine was needed,the RAC garage were forced to pay up £5,000 in total.
What a drag that your brother to have to go through all this. My mechanic is a mate of mine who will do the work for a reasonable price and is prepared to spend a day or a day and a half on it. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
My mechanic seems to think that as there was a semi (non declared) recall for this issue that Skoda might get the work done at a reduced rate if I kick up enough of a fuss. Not sure its worth the effort though. The only incentive would be that if something went wrong they would have to deal with it.
 

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My mechanic seems to think that as there was a semi (non declared) recall for this issue that Skoda might get the work done at a reduced rate if I kick up enough of a fuss. Not sure its worth the effort though. The only incentive would be that if something went wrong they would have to deal with it.
There not an official recall,VW knew of the problem fairly early but refused to accept responsibility,they did pay up in a few cases or part payment,but mostly under 3 years.VW knew they had a bad engine on their hands even after modifying the chain etc in late 2011 it was not perfect so they stopped production and switched to a 16 valve cambelt engine.
It was seen that they used up all the old engines on the lower status Skoda’s and Seats,as they didn’t want to upset their higher brand customers of Audi and VW.They behaved despicably over this,and lost a lot of respect for the whole company!
 

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What a drag that your brother to have to go through all this. My mechanic is a mate of mine who will do the work for a reasonable price and is prepared to spend a day or a day and a half on it. Thanks!
Ask your mechanic if he plans to replace the crankshaft sprocket,as the later one is a bit wider to accommodate the wider chain.Removing and replacing the crank sprocket adds some time to the job and needs special tools.It it just a tight push fit on the crankshaft,not even a keyed fit,and it is amazing how it never slips on the shaft.The oil pump chain may also need replacement while stripped down,your mechanic can decide on this.
 

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VW behaved despicably over this and lost a lot of respect for the whole company!
Just this? ;) :rolleyes::eek:

.... the crank sprocket adds some time to the job and needs special tools. It it just a tight push fit on the crankshaft not even a keyed fit and it is amazing how it never slips on the shaft....
Every BMC/BL/Austin-Rover Mini, 1100, 1300, etc. with an A-series engine mounted transversely, had the flywheel mounted onto the end of the crank as a "push fit". Held by just a single large bolt screwed into the end of the crank. So 100% of drive to the clutch driven plate was transmitted through this joint. No keyway. The crank and flywheel did however have a very slight conical taper, and the big bolt was tightened to, err, "gorilla tight". Something over 120-150 ft lbs from memory? Similar with a lot of wheel bearings. Where the inner race is a simple, non-tapered, push fit onto the hub, but seldom give problems with that rotating on the hub. Provided the hub nut is adequately tightened. (In the case of my BMW, where "adequate" is a 3/4-drive socket with an industrial 4' long torque wrench plus a further 6' scaffolding pole and a gorilla on the end of that, before the torque wrench "clicked" at its 200+something setting.)
 

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The Mini crank tail didn't have a traditional keyway, but was slotted across the end for one of these fellows.
Automotive design Automotive lighting Headgear Font Bumper

I exploded a number of flywheel pullers trying to get the tapered bits apart before I was passed the secret by a wise master... Crank up the tension on the puller to 'quite firm' with a decent breaker bar, then go out for the afternoon.

At some arbitrary point in the future the flywheel will just decide to leave of it's own accord.

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
I really appreciate all of you chipping in and thanks a gain Topgun. My mechanic will do it if I ask. But he told me today that he as lacking an essential tool after watching a youtube vid link of the removal of the chain from a 1.2tsi. Although he has been a mechanic all his life he said in no uncertain terms that he does not trust any mechanics. Not sure what to do as the whole thing looks quite complicated and it really needs to be done by someone who has experience with this engine. This leaves me no option but to go to my local Skoda (watford) But I use my car for business so will lose out unless they have a courtesy car. I know they will charge top $. £800? And then I know the team is stretched and I have heard some horror stories similar to the one that TopGun shared above. So what the f.... do I do? Exchange it for a later model? I just spent 7.5 k on it. BTW I really love the car and it runs very smoothly.
 

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So what the f.... do I do?
Do you not have any VAG independants near you, we are lucky to have an excellent one near us that we use for anything I have a problem with.
 

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I don’t know how stretched your chain is,but if you only get a bit of noise at start up and then it ticks over quietly there isn’t any urgency to do anything.(That’s what mine is like at 63k) If the noise continues more than a few seconds,it means the tensioner is at its limit and then a new chain kit is needed.The engine management light may come on too to show the timing is getting slightly out of sync.
 

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My mechanic will do it if I ask. But he told me today that he as lacking an essential tool after watching a youtube vid link of the removal of the chain from a 1.2tsi.
The choice of what to do is yours, of course, but in your position I would consider buying the tool and letting the mechanic crack on with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
The choice of what to do is yours, of course, but in your position I would consider buying the tool and letting the mechanic crack on with it.
Thanks Cubes, I do need guidance here so appreciate your advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I don’t know how stretched your chain is,but if you only get a bit of noise at start up and then it ticks over quietly there isn’t any urgency to do anything.(That’s what mine is like at 63k) If the noise continues more than a few seconds,it means the tensioner is at its limit and then a new chain kit is needed.The engine management light may come on too to show the timing is getting slightly out of sync.
Interesting re engine management light. Well the problem is that it is very random and not necessarily at start up. And I have heard it go on for about 10 seconds recently. Starts with a growl and then more of a faded growl.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Do you not have any VAG independants near you, we are lucky to have an excellent one near us that we use for anything I have a problem with.
Urrell I have not explored this avenue yet. Presumably you mean instead of taking it to Skoda main dealer? There is a VW main dealer near me. But not sure about VAGS.
 

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There was an independent VAG specialist in St Albans when I used to live near there a few years ago. I didn't have a VAG car then so never used them myself, but a work colleague did and was happy with them.
 

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I really appreciate all of you chipping in and thanks a gain Topgun. My mechanic will do it if I ask. But he told me today that he as lacking an essential tool after watching a youtube vid link of the removal of the chain from a 1.2tsi. Although he has been a mechanic all his life he said in no uncertain terms that he does not trust any mechanics. Not sure what to do as the whole thing looks quite complicated and it really needs to be done by someone who has experience with this engine. This leaves me no option but to go to my local Skoda (watford) But I use my car for business so will lose out unless they have a courtesy car. I know they will charge top $. £800? And then I know the team is stretched and I have heard some horror stories similar to the one that TopGun shared above. So what the f.... do I do? Exchange it for a later model? I just spent 7.5 k on it. BTW I really love the car and it runs very smoothly.
You do NOT need to go to a Skoda dealer, just find a VAG specialist in your area and go to them.
A quick Google search found several!
 
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