Mrs J now has an Android 'phone, so I've downloaded the VAG DPF app. After a 95 mile journey at legal speeds yesterday, these are the key values: soot mass 14.37g, 141 miles and 279 minutes since last regen, oil ash residue 5.9g, soot mass measured 0.48g. I've only just found out about the bar display showing % full, so I didn't note the % value. I understand that passive regeneration occurs during a run, so does this remove significant amounts of soot? Which value indicates the condition of the DPF and at what level is it 'full'? As we cover a relatively low mileage for a diesel I'm keen to know that I'm doing enough longer runs to keep the DPF in good order. Thank you in advance for your help. Jimmy
Understanding VAG DPF app
Jimmy
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I have never seen a warning light in over 130k of driving in 3 diesel Yetis. Mixture of short and long trips.
Never seen one either in wife’s Diesel 1.6 Fabia which mainly does short trips and about 4K a year. Occasional 45 mile return trips to York seem to keep it healthy.
Is it really wise to monitor and worry about the spot loading which goes up and down. Only think that really matters is how much ash capacity is left. As one above still has some ash capacity at 200k most of us should never have a problem?
Never seen one either in wife’s Diesel 1.6 Fabia which mainly does short trips and about 4K a year. Occasional 45 mile return trips to York seem to keep it healthy.
Is it really wise to monitor and worry about the spot loading which goes up and down. Only think that really matters is how much ash capacity is left. As one above still has some ash capacity at 200k most of us should never have a problem?
2l petrol 30mpg
2l diesel 45mpg
2l petrol towing van 22mpg
2l diesel towing van 33mpg
2l petrol loads of CO2
2l diesel less CO2
These are our 2 4x4 Ill stick with diesel thank you
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Update: on a 16-mile journey, at higher speeds the VAG DPF app went plink plink plink and the bottle shape went red plus half the arrows. This didn't last long but happened again later. I assume this was a passive regen as the DPF input gas temp went up by about 100 deg C for a short time when I hit 60mph. Full % is now 91%, so as we're going out on Monday, I'll keep the 'phone on. I hope I don't sound too obsessed! Bit like when B Gas gave us a free electricity monitor some years ago. I was obsessive about checking all the lights, how the cleaner speed increased power usage, kettle, cooker, freezer, etc. After three days I don't think I looked again or (as I might do now) even create a spreadsheet. And no, I'm not getting a smart meter to do the work for me!
The problem is for so many motorists they only think about mpg! They ignore the servicing and maintenance costs of modern diesel vehicles,with their particulate filters,and duel mass flywheels and numerous other costly parts which can be short lived.Diesels are not built like the reliable work horses of times gone by! Then there’s the question of price of the cars to start with,I think it was Honest John who pointed out that at 15,000 a year it would take a few years to recoup the extra cost of choosing diesel.
At 8.5 years old and 20-25,000 miles per year on each of the two main cars in my signature. Over 200,000 now on the Yeti - must update the sig.!
Then I'm sure a diesel remains the right choice for both me and SWMBO. And I'm thinking just as much about the CO2 emissions as much as mpg.
NOx are a subsidiary concern, as rain washes those out of the atmosphere fairly rapidly and they are very reactive, so breakdown into less noxious (appropriate word?) compounds easily - that's why AdBlue works. Whereas the higher levels of CO2 per mile emitted by petrol cars (in inverse proportion to their mpg) is of greater concern, as that stays around for centuries and destroys the planet. While the NOx just destroy the humans who are destroying the planet? (Incidentally, that is one of the things I agree with VW on, and why our Yeti will remain "unfixed". I'd rather keep the higher NOx and lower CO2 thanks).
The diesel engines themselves are still as reliable as ever. Its mainly the emissions gubbins attached that cause the problems. More recent DMFs, made to a stronger specification, seem to be much more durable. Two manufacturers supplied DMFs to the VW engine assembly lines. Sachs and LuK (a.k.a Schaeffler). There is much anecdotal evidence among the garage trade that the LuK units are more durable than the Sachs.
Petrol engine cars also have expensive catalytic converters that can and do fail. My last petrol BMW had a cat fail. It's brand new non-OEM cheapo replacement cost £250 and failed in under a year. Replaced that by risking a £350 second hand genuine cat from a breaker. That was fine! Till I sold the car 2.5 years later. (on 250,000 miles). New cat was £850+VAT list.
P.S. It's "dual" mass flywheels, not "pistols at dawn". Darn auto spell correct again no doubt! That has done nasty things to my posts several times.😉
Then I'm sure a diesel remains the right choice for both me and SWMBO. And I'm thinking just as much about the CO2 emissions as much as mpg.
NOx are a subsidiary concern, as rain washes those out of the atmosphere fairly rapidly and they are very reactive, so breakdown into less noxious (appropriate word?) compounds easily - that's why AdBlue works. Whereas the higher levels of CO2 per mile emitted by petrol cars (in inverse proportion to their mpg) is of greater concern, as that stays around for centuries and destroys the planet. While the NOx just destroy the humans who are destroying the planet? (Incidentally, that is one of the things I agree with VW on, and why our Yeti will remain "unfixed". I'd rather keep the higher NOx and lower CO2 thanks).
The diesel engines themselves are still as reliable as ever. Its mainly the emissions gubbins attached that cause the problems. More recent DMFs, made to a stronger specification, seem to be much more durable. Two manufacturers supplied DMFs to the VW engine assembly lines. Sachs and LuK (a.k.a Schaeffler). There is much anecdotal evidence among the garage trade that the LuK units are more durable than the Sachs.
Petrol engine cars also have expensive catalytic converters that can and do fail. My last petrol BMW had a cat fail. It's brand new non-OEM cheapo replacement cost £250 and failed in under a year. Replaced that by risking a £350 second hand genuine cat from a breaker. That was fine! Till I sold the car 2.5 years later. (on 250,000 miles). New cat was £850+VAT list.
P.S. It's "dual" mass flywheels, not "pistols at dawn". Darn auto spell correct again no doubt! That has done nasty things to my posts several times.😉
I'd totally agree that way too many owners ignore the servicing and maintenance though. In the mistaken belief that the manufacturers recommendations for the ideal driving patterns are also adequate for their own, low annual mileages.
Experience has taught me a high mileage diesel having spent its life on motorways, with an exemplary service history, is a far safer used car buy than a low mileage petrol with dubious service intervals every two years or 18-20,000 miles.
Experience has taught me a high mileage diesel having spent its life on motorways, with an exemplary service history, is a far safer used car buy than a low mileage petrol with dubious service intervals every two years or 18-20,000 miles.
Not only the 60 mpg but the £30 a year road tax, the driving characteristics of this diesel and as we generally keep our cars for 10 - 12 years after nearly 4 years still know we made the right choice.
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I will defend my 7 year old 1.2 petrol Yeti, at least until it develops problems, on the emissions front
At its MOT in March this year the CO reading at idle was .020% against an allowed max of 3.5%
The HC reading was 35ppm against an allowable maximum of 1200.
And to defend Petrol engines further, I understand that new regulations are planned for ship engines. I think the date is 2020, but they will no longer be allowed to use heavy oil, and the resulting knock on effect will be an increase in diesel prices.
At its MOT in March this year the CO reading at idle was .020% against an allowed max of 3.5%
The HC reading was 35ppm against an allowable maximum of 1200.
And to defend Petrol engines further, I understand that new regulations are planned for ship engines. I think the date is 2020, but they will no longer be allowed to use heavy oil, and the resulting knock on effect will be an increase in diesel prices.
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I'd like some help with interpreting the latest VAG APP results. Yesterday a regen had occurred, during a short drive on Monday, although the App wasn't on. Regen 26% (could it have been interrupted, although I wasn't aware of the fan running on Monday when parking). Soot mass 6.17g, miles since last regen 4, and time 24 minutes, oil/ash 0.01g, soot mass measured 1.23g. At what level of soot mass is the DPF 'full' and what is the difference between calculated and measured? Also, being a novice with our Android 'phone, how do I download a .txt file? As a postscript re ship's fuel, the new P and O cruise ship Iona is to be fuelled by LPG.
Jimmy, you should be seeing a green/yellow line between the top display zone (where the DPF “bottle” symbol is) and the top row of 3 digital information displays. That progresses left to right as the soot level increases. Together with a green / yellow percentage in the lower right corner of the top zone. When those get between 75 and 95%, I’m finding an active regen gets triggered, as soon as the other conditions are also met, such as exhaust temperature, engine speed, etc. and duration those have been over minimum for a regen.
I too am still seeking a set of high and low values for Oil Ash Residue that would lend calibration to the readings I get from the App.
Measured soot mass always seems lower than calculated in our car. I’m also still trying to figure out why that is so?
I too am still seeking a set of high and low values for Oil Ash Residue that would lend calibration to the readings I get from the App.
Measured soot mass always seems lower than calculated in our car. I’m also still trying to figure out why that is so?
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A regen was due so Mrs J monitored as I drove. The last regen was 245 miles ago and this one took took about 20 minutes. The % dropped from 100 to 23 whilst the input gas temp rose to 625 deg. After the regen soot mass calc 6.24g and meas 0.32g. I still can’t find out the capacity of the DPF when ‘full’ but otherwise the app was well worth £3.30 and I’m now satisfied that our lowish annual mileage is under control.
I’m still trying to figure out low and high values for Oil Ash Residue.
Currently the Yeti has a value of 0.2 which doesn’t seem to change much.
Currently the Yeti has a value of 0.2 which doesn’t seem to change much.
Mine is 0.13L after 118,000 miles, it was 0.10 at 90,000 and has crept up over the last 28,000 miles.
How many miles has your car done?
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Oil ash residue figure currently sitting at 0.06 on only 62000 miles. Interesting to see yesterday before the regen, that my soot mass measured and calculated figures were only 1 g apart.
A little under 205,000 miles now. See signature line for rough figure. Updated from time to time. :smile:
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I've come to a 2.0 TDi Yeti from an E60 BMW 525d with the 3.0 straight-six engine. The DPF on this car was a major concern to me (and plenty of other owners!) when I first found out about it, and subsequent research revealed that hitting the correct coolant temperature was crucial to ensuring that DPF regeneration took place. Rather unhelpfully BMW didn't fit a temperature gauge on this model (can you believe it?), but a check using the so-called 'hidden menu' revealed that my coolant was only hitting the high 70'sC and the high 80's was needed to ensure regeneration. There were other factors too, but coolant temperature was the big one.
I replaced the main thermostat and also the EGR thermostat and the temperature was then high 80's/low 90's. I monitored the DPF fairly regularly thereafter and found that regenerations took place consistently over the 4.5 years I had the car despite many shortish journeys - round trips anywhere between 4-5 miles to 10-20 miles. If I hadn't done a longer run of maybe 30+ miles for a week or two out of necessity I made a point of doing one.
The soot and ash figures never made a lot of sense to me as I was never able to get an indication as to whether the amount logged was good, bad, or somewhere in-between!
I used the 'Carly for BMW' app and found this extremely useful for monitoring purposes. Carly also produce a version for many VAG models https://www.mycarly.com/en/app/vag/ - anyone on here use it? If not, what is the favourite diagnostic/monitoring tool?
I was rather hoping that DPF worries might be a think of the past with the Yeti - perhaps not!:grin:
I replaced the main thermostat and also the EGR thermostat and the temperature was then high 80's/low 90's. I monitored the DPF fairly regularly thereafter and found that regenerations took place consistently over the 4.5 years I had the car despite many shortish journeys - round trips anywhere between 4-5 miles to 10-20 miles. If I hadn't done a longer run of maybe 30+ miles for a week or two out of necessity I made a point of doing one.
The soot and ash figures never made a lot of sense to me as I was never able to get an indication as to whether the amount logged was good, bad, or somewhere in-between!
I used the 'Carly for BMW' app and found this extremely useful for monitoring purposes. Carly also produce a version for many VAG models https://www.mycarly.com/en/app/vag/ - anyone on here use it? If not, what is the favourite diagnostic/monitoring tool?
I was rather hoping that DPF worries might be a think of the past with the Yeti - perhaps not!:grin:
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